With all this talk about Wooden dashes I would like to offer the following.
I have a solid walnut dash for a TR4A. The PO made it and it fit very well.
The only problem is he did not cut out the glovebox door. If any one is
interested, I will give it to them for the cost of shipping.
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe Curry <firstname.lastname@example.org>
To: Bill Kelly <email@example.com>
Cc: TR List <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 2:14 AM
Subject: Re: Wooden Dashes
> The problem with Maple is getting a piece that is thoroughly cured. If
> it is the slightest bit green, it will tend to warp during the curing
> process. After it is dry, though, it is rather stable and the grain is
> generally diverse enough that splitting is less likely than with other
> hardwoods. It sounds like you got a very good piece of maple for your
> Bill Kelly wrote:
> > Here's what worked for me.
> > First, use maple. I know, it's not exotic like mahogony or walnut. But
> > it's more stable, and it's lighter in color, and takes stain slowly.
> > Gives you a fighting chance to get that "honey" color, by building up to
> > it with several thin coats. My Herald has had a solid maple dash for 7
> > years now without the slightest sign of warping.
> > Getting the cutouts round? Trace the old dash with a dark pencil. Cut
> > out with a sabre saw, being careful to stay inside the lines. Finish
> > with a drum sander (you can get attachments for your drill). Use the
> > biggest size that will fit within the hole, and a good heavy grit.
> "If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
> -- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer