Bill,
The problem with Maple is getting a piece that is thoroughly cured. If
it is the slightest bit green, it will tend to warp during the curing
process. After it is dry, though, it is rather stable and the grain is
generally diverse enough that splitting is less likely than with other
hardwoods. It sounds like you got a very good piece of maple for your
dash.
Joe
Bill Kelly wrote:
>
> Here's what worked for me.
>
> First, use maple. I know, it's not exotic like mahogony or walnut. But
> it's more stable, and it's lighter in color, and takes stain slowly.
> Gives you a fighting chance to get that "honey" color, by building up to
> it with several thin coats. My Herald has had a solid maple dash for 7
> years now without the slightest sign of warping.
>
> Getting the cutouts round? Trace the old dash with a dark pencil. Cut
> out with a sabre saw, being careful to stay inside the lines. Finish
> with a drum sander (you can get attachments for your drill). Use the
> biggest size that will fit within the hole, and a good heavy grit.
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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