Geo :
I've definitely "been there, done that, got the T-shirt" <g>
The peg unscrews from the bell crank, and is actually considered to be
part of the rod assembly. You can either buy an entire rod assy (Moss
P/N 371-410 $14.95) or just the end (Moss P/N 676-045 $4.95). I don't
know of a source for the bell crank, but it wouldn't come with the pegs
anyway.
First, make sure your throttle linkage is adjusted so that the pedal
hits the stop on the firewall just as the front carb hits it's stop.
The idea is to not have any extra force transmitted through the linkage
at WOT.
As a workaround, you can try putting a flat washer under the peg, so
that the flat spot is turned. Also, make sure the plug in the rod end
is screwed down as tight as possible without binding. It's probably
best to find the correct setting with the other end of the rod loose (so
you can turn it to test for binding), then return to that setting with
the rod installed. Don't forget the cotter pin (I use a piece of safety
wire).
And now, of course, now you'll always remember to put a drop of oil in
each of the 4 rod ends, every time you change oil, right ? (not to
mention the rear generator bearing, 4 places where the throttle shafts
enter the carbs and the top of the distributor shaft.)
Randall
59 TR3A
Lakewood, CA
Geo Hahn wrote:
>
> My throttle linkage pops apart when I fully depress the accelerator. It
> separates at the front end of the long link rod that runs parallel to
> the carbs. I think the fault lies with the peg on bell crank lever that
> engages the socket at the front end of the long link rod -- I suspect
> that the ball on the end of that peg is supposed to be round... mine
> looks a bit flattened.
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