>From: "Freeman, Noah" <Noah.Freeman@Bain.com>
>Reply-To: "Freeman, Noah" <Noah.Freeman@Bain.com>
>To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Performance upgrades...
>Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 14:29:08 -0400
>
>Hello all-
>
>WEBER CARBS-
>Various ebayers are selling weber DCOE carbs fit for the TR4...I like the
>idea of getting my commuter car TR4 to accelerate to 60 faster than a Yugo,
>so was considering them as a way to get more power...(but the $1.2K list
>price at moss seems like a lot for a hoser like me)
>
>I imagine this must be a much hashed over subject, but was wondering what
>hte current conventional wisdom was. (Nothing on the VTR website)
>
>Is this:
>
>A good idea?
>
Depends... Webers are tricky beasts. You've got to deal with emulsion
tubes and settings. What works for the street won't work in
competition. The vintage racers are divided on Webers. Many more of
the FOT (Friends of Triumph) that I know use SUs and SZs rather than
Webers. Webers are better at top end but aren't so good at other
ranges, unless tuned to be so.
>A way to get more power out of my engine?
>
Make sure it's running in top form (cheap)... Headers, balance and
take the engine to spec. (blueprinting) (more expensive). Further down
the road, porting, polishing, hot cams, over boring (larger pistons
and sleeves), the list goes on and on.
The important thing to remember is consider the car as a whole system.
Performance upgrades lead to handling upgrades, lead to braking
upgrades lead to driver upgrades (learning how to "drive") so on and so
forth. The further you get down the road towards a "RACE CAR", the
less tractible is becomes as a "daily driver".
>A good way to die in a fiery inferno?
>
`Depends on how you proceded as the Scots would say: "Gang warily".
>Something that will be very hard to keep up?
>
Yes, sort of...
>Something that I will be unable ot tune myself, and therefore a slave to
>the garage?
That depends on you. The more you do yourself the more you can do.
If you don't fall behind once in tune it's easier.
>
>EXHAUST SYSTEMS
>I need to (low priority) replace my exhaust- PO used a non-original
muffler that rubs on the car frame w/ no rubber suspending it, is loud. I
figured,
>"while unjer there, why not do somehting for the acceleration?"...(was
>planning on just doing hte bakc half of of hte exhuast, but all ideas are
>welcome)
If you're going the rear half why not get a header for the front half?
>
>What are peoples expereince with "higher performance" exhuasts? The Monza
>seems to be all over the catalogs...do they offer performance advantages?
I beleive so. I had one on my `4 when it died I went with a Triumph
Tune 4 into 2 into 1 header.
>Are they hard to install?
Not particularly... BUT!!! let me tell you:
1. You won't be able to install it with the starter in.
2. You won't be able to put the starter in with the header bolted up.
3. You won't be able to drop the starter without unbolting the header
4. You won't be able to pull the header without dropping the starter
Ask me how I know...
With my ongoing starter problems over the years it got so I could
take the car from the floor to the starter in hand in a little under 45
minutes, working by myself.
OBTW, I finally bought a Nissan adapted starter for my `4 a couple
of years back... It's 2/3rds the size and weight of the Lucas b*tch
I fought with... I think you could get the Nissan starter in without
dropping the Monza header.
Do they rust through in ten seconds?
Nope, about 10 years
Greg Petrolati Champaign, Illinois 1962 TR4 (CT4852L)
That's not a leak... My car's just marking its territory...
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