> I am considering shaving the head to increase the compression ratio to
> ~9.5:1.
I'm a big fan of compression, but don't forget you're now going to be buying
premium gasoline.
> There has been some discussion about shorter pushrods or
> shims under the
> rocker arm pedestals. Is this an absolute necessity?
IMO, no, as long as you stay within the range of the adjusters. If you do
need to do something, don't shim the pedestals.
> Can anybody name a
> supplier for these?
Ken Gillanders
British Frame and Engine
4831 N. Ryland Ave
Temple City, CA 91780
(626) 443-0939
BFEKENG@aol.com
Lots of others, almost any TR performance shop will have them. I'm sure Ted
Schumacher does, for example.
> Hardened valve seats for no-lead. Any opinions? Worth the expense? It
> doesn't look like the valves are receeded but this is just visual.
If you aren't going to grind the seats, I wouldn't bother. Otherwise, I
dunno. The only engine I've ever had recession on is my TR3, _after_
installing hardened seats and SS valves ...
> I toyed with the idea of putting in a longer duration cam. Still only for
> street use. Just thinking about recovering the HP that the EPA regulated
> away. As I understand, installing cam bearings is a common upgrade.
IMO, you don't want to install cam bearings unless the block is worn where
the cam journals ride. This is not an easy upgrade, you'll need to pull the
engine out, strip it, and take it to a machine shop to be line-bored for the
cam bearings. But, it would probably help your oil pressure ...
> Anything I should inspect or do while I have the head off?
Disassemble and clean the rocker shaft. If it's in bad shape, send it off
to Rocker Arm Rebuilders to be reconditioned.
Ask Ken G. about the other stuff. I've heard the original PI cam works
well, if you don't want to do a lot of other tuning.
Randall
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