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Re: Advice on cylinder head

To: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>, "6 Pack List \(E-mail\)" <6pack@autox.team.net>, "Triumph Mailing List \(E-mail\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Advice on cylinder head
From: "Tim Hutchisen" <hakhutch@megalink.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 18:14:10 -0600
References: <002801c1addb$3153c0a0$6701a8c0@roylok01.mi.comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>



> Hardened valve seats for no-lead. Any opinions? Worth the expense?

Yes, especially if you are going to keep the car. It is not alot of extra
money in the scheme of things.

> I toyed with the idea of putting in a longer duration cam. Still only for
> street use. Just thinking about recovering the HP that the EPA regulated
> away.

The S2 configuration works well for street use, is tunable and will gain
some HP. You will have to remove the radiator, grill and some other stuff to
remove the cam. I seem to remember having to undo one motor mount and
jacking the motor a bit to gain clearance to extract the cam while the motor
is in
situ.

>As I understand, installing cam bearings is a common upgrade.

Yes, but it cannot be done with the motor in the car. The block has to be
line bored. I had some difficulty finding a machine shop with line boring
capabilities. YMMV


> The bores feel smooth, can't feel a ridge, compression is good, if I
recall
> correctly oil pressure is about 25 psi at warm idle. Anything I should
> inspect or do while I have the head off?

Decarbon the tops of the pistons.

    If you tighten up the head, you run the risk of piston ring "blow by"
especially if there are some miles on the motor. I drove mine for a couple
of summers with a new head/old bottom end. It smoked a bit but ran OK (80000
+ miles at the
time). I have since rebuilt the lower end.
If your budget allows, my recommendation is do it all, if you can. If not,
plan on the lower end within the next few years.

Good luck-

Tim Hutchisen
71 TR6
80 TR7 Spider

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