Yes I had a broken tap removed from an aluminum Vintage Harley head without
destroying the aluminum threads using EDM. Its amazing but the peice must fit
in the machine, usually bathed in dielectric liquid. Mostly used for making
plastic molds with machined carbon electrodes...
THanks for all the advice; I am soaking the bolt all week with penetrating
oil - cannot find Kroil but using something else. It is actually a bolt (I'm
pretty sure), the one that the hand crank engages.
This weekend I plan to pull the pan (gotta do it anyway), use a 2x4 to lock
the crank and I plan a WWF smackdown - wish me luck...
From: Bill Babcock [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Mon 3/26/2007 12:30 PM
To: SHANE Ingate
Cc: Mark Eginton; email@example.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] Recalcentrant Bolt!!!
It would be a pretty big or specialized shop to have EDM stuff. It's a nut.
It will come off. If worse comes to worst, use a chisel against the edge of
the flats. It helps if you make a nick with a sharp chisel and then use a
dull one to apply torque. Big Big F*&%$ing Hammer (BBFH) and a bit of
technique. Just be sure you're loosening the nut, not tightening it.
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On Mar 26, 2007, at 4:01 AM, SHANE Ingate wrote:
I've seen some sort of "electrical disintegration" process that
was used to disintegrate an outer bearing shell in my Guzzi
gearbox. Sorry, I don't know the correct terminology or
even how it works, but it is something that only a shop would
have. Maybe others on the list could help and indicate
whether it would work for you.
Shane Ingate in Maryland
Mark Eginton wrote:
I hate being beaten by equipment but here I am having tried
of a cutting torch to break lose that @$%*ing crank bolt
where behind the
on an old TR2 engine. Tried pneumatic and hammer impacts,
sweet talking and
big mallets having laid waste to one wrench and one socket
craftsman replacement policy) and now I have moved on to
before I indulge in a monster frustration tantrum guaranteed
for short term
satiation and long term expensive grief.
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