i had issues with slowly sinking floats too. its hard to reproduce but at
about 12 bucks for a new float its not worth guessing.
before installing a regulator, fuel pressure should be easy to just measure
with one of those cheap fluid filled mechanical gauges that go under the
bonnet. take it out when you're done. you need a gauge to set/check the
regulator anyhow. i keep a mechanical gauge on a long line that can come
into the interior in my tool chest for testing/diagnosis. actually two -
one for carbs and one higher range one for injection.
On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Allan Ballard <allanballard@att.net>wrote:
> Thanks everyone,
>
> The fuel tanks have been redone; the floats are set correctly but I don't
> know
> whether they leak or if anything is
> sticking.
>
> Since the the carb is new (remanufactured) hopefully the needle/seat is ok
> ...?
>
> The carb appears to have two spacers each about 1/2 inch thick but I don't
> know if either or both are non-heat absorbing---how
> to tell?
>
> There is a filter just prior to the fuel line connecting to the carb.
>
> That leaves fuel pressure; makes sense to insert a pressure regulator into
> the
> system. The fuel pump is a new reproduction of
> the factory pump.
>
> Allan
>
>
>
> On Jul 16, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Thomas Witt wrote:
>
> > As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas. If
> this
> car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris. If it is getting
> past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not
> allowing the float to close. This might be the cause of the excess fuel.
> >
> > So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle &
> seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a
> none
> heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high. Those would be
> the
> first things to check.
> >
> > Tom _______________________________________________
> > Tigers@autox.team.net
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