Excellent suggestion Richard. I will do that.
Yes, one should have part of the joint in the cap when tapping.
But when one is swearing, holding the yoke, the joint, the cap, a BFH,
and has a high frustration quotient at that moment, it is easy to forget
to do that!!! (At least for me)
Vance
________________________________
From: Richard Seaton [mailto:rsh17@msn.com]
Sent: March 17, 2005 8:52 AM
To: Navarrette, Vance
Subject: Re: TR6 U-Joint Failure
Have you measured the caps with dial calipers to see how much bigger the
caps are? What about sticking the caps in the freezer for a while and
heat the axle up some???
It is good to put part of the u joint in the cap when tapping the cap
home, but you must have already figured that out.
Richard Seaton
RSH17@msn.com
View My 1969 TR6 restoration @
(http://groups.msncom/Richards69TR6Restoration
<http://groups.msn.com/Richards69TR6Restoration> )
OR
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92
----- Original Message -----
From: Navarrette, Vance <mailto:vance.navarrette@intel.com>
To: Steven Altomare <mailto:gtg124h@mail.gatech.edu> ;
6pack@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 10:25 AM
Subject: RE: TR6 U-Joint Failure
Steven:
I am replacing all of my U joints now as part of my rebuild. The
drive shaft was easy, the half shafts are a B&%$*#.
I noted that the U Joints I obtained for the drive shaft were
Japanese and were cake to install. I don't know what the rest
are, as
they are in a plain white box, but they are NOT the same
manufacturer. I
ordered them all from Moss, BTW.
Problem #1 - The Zerk fittings don't fit. They came with little
stumpy Zerk Fittings (1/4"?), and the hole for the fittings is
down
between two arms on the joint. The result is that there is not
enough
room for the fittings to seat against the joint. So I drove to 4
different places to pick up some 3/4" tall Zerk fittings (they
were hard
to find). These do not have a shoulder at the base of the
fitting, and
are sort of like a pipe nipple in that regard. They screw in all
the way
and seat firmly in the joint. Problem solved.
Problem #2 - The bearing caps themselves seem to be *slightly*
larger. I could not press the caps into the joint with my vise.
I tried
tapping them in with a socket and hammer, but all I succeeded in
doing
was dislodging the needle bearings in the bearing cups. I even
managed
to break a couple of the needle bearings, so I had to buy
another U
Joint to replace the one I buggered.
Problem # 3 - With fresh determination that I would NOT get in a
hurry and use my hammer, I cleaned the yoke and bearing, lubed
everything up so it would slide in, and reefed on my vise so
hard I
broke it! So I disassembled the joints, and I am going to the
auto parts
store to get a brake cylinder hone to "tweak" the yokes. I will
also be
picking up a new vise. Dirty #@$%*&^!!!!!!
So, my advice:
1. DO NOT succumb to temptation and use a hammer/socket
to drive the cups into the U Joint
2. If you need to use an extension on your vise handle
to press in the bearings, something
is wrong, so STOP!!!
3. Have a brake cylinder hone handy to "adjust" your
yokes if necessary.
4. Make sure the Zerk fittings (if any) on your U joints
will seat fully in the joint.
Vance
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