[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [oletrucks] 700R4 LOCKUP TORQUE CONVERTER?

To: "'Michael Keele'" <mkeele@uswest.net>, oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] 700R4 LOCKUP TORQUE CONVERTER?
From: New Mexico Jim <ADvent@thuntek.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 07:25:05 -0600

The 700 can be an electronic or non electronic. The electronic controlled ones
are my favorite. Doing away with the electronics is a bad mistake. The computer
controlled 700's shift so nice. The ball I was referring to is located to the
front right. There is a wire on that solenoid and it runs to 1 to 3 hydraulic
swathes. Don't ever let a trans shop talk you into a non lock up unit. Those may
work great on the strip, but not on the road. The length of the cable is
important. You don't want a cable that can't slide. The cable should be placed
in a relaxed position. In other words, route the cable in a position that it
want to take and the end of the cable end should lay just a tad forward of where
the cable end attaches to the throttle body. The propose of the cable is
twofold; one is the standard old cable operated kickdown and the other controls
pump pressure. This is why its so vital to have it adjusted correctly. Adjusting
it to control shift points is potential  death sentence to a 700. That is NOT
the way to do it. That is the job of the valve body and governor. Although a
slight minor adjustment may be acceptable. Setting the TV cable looser will
cause a low pump pressure condition. When this happens, the clutches may not get
the oil it needs and you get burned clutches. The correct way to adjust a TV
cable is to push in the metal tab with a long phillips screw driver and slide
the plastic tab to the relaxed possession. Mash the gas pedal, not the throttle
arm (causes a slight "too tight" condition) to the floor. This will set the
tension to the correct setting. If it is too tight, the condition will be high
shift point and firmer shifts along with higher pump pressure. If you have to
err in one direction, err towards the too tight condition. There is no proof
that a shift kit will extend trans life by speeding up the shifts and its
usually the other way around. When an automatic shifts it is in two gears at
one! One gear releases and the other fully engages. The timing is very
important. When someone goes drilling on those valve body plates they should
have a perfect idea as to what he is doing. Which bring up easy made problems.
These kits can and do often cause shift bind which is where the shift timing is
upset. If you speed up the engagement of second gear without speeding first gear
release will cause shift bind and what is happening like slamming on the brakes.
The tires are actually skidding, not spinning! And if first releases too fast
before second is fully engaged then you get shift lag and you can tell that be
the brief rise in RPM during the shift, that ain't good, either. You can leave a
few checkballs out in the valve body. A few are to soften pressure rate increase
in certain passages providing a softer shift so you can haul a wedding cake
without worry, hehe. If you do anything to a 700, your money is by far spent on
an oil cooler, the biggest one you can add to the radiator cooler and annual
filter changes. Sorry for this being so long.

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>