I took the slave out of my son's MK 4 from the top. I think it may be
possible from the bottom, but it would really be a pain.
I do have some advice though. If the slave has a metal dust boot don't try
to remove it or if you do be very careful since that thing must go back on.
I hear that some kits come with that metal ring, but I have never seen
one. I now have email from 6 folks who screwed this up. I make 7. I
think, but I am not sure that the proper way to do it is to pull the flat
rubber seal out of the end and after repairing the cylinder push in a new
one. I don't know of anyone who has done that, it just seems like the only
way to do it. Joe Curry was able to take one off and maybe even put it back.
Sam
At 06:30 PM 7/6/1998 -0400, Randy Potter wrote:
>I knew it was too good to be true. This spring when I rebuilt my cluch
>master cylinder I thought of doing the slave just to be safe, but decided
>that it was too far under the car, so I would wait and see if it leaked.
>It does.
>
>Having rolled into the garage today after a "don't shift if is isn't
>absolutely necessary and use the clutch even less" trip home, I have
>decided to fix the slave. Any wisdom will be appreciated, but my first
>question is very basic - what is the best approach to the slave cylinder,
>from the bottom or from the top? The manuals are mute on this topic.
>
>
>Randy Potter
>Mk II Spitfire Comm # FC55339L
>Finally has new seats - and a leaking slave cylinder
>
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