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FROG AYE progress report. Longish. Real Spridget content

To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: FROG AYE progress report. Longish. Real Spridget content
From: "Hal Faulkner" <hal@katemuir.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 19:13:39 -0800
Delivered-to: mharc@demo.fatchancegarage.com
In-reply-to: <002901c63bfa$e044b5e0$0287b542@computer>
Reply-to: "Hal Faulkner" <hal@katemuir.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
Just thought I'd post a summary of the work done so far on FROG AYE in the
13 months since it arrived, courtesy of my sister.

Replaced rear shocks and radius arms (was just going to replace the bushings
with Noltec, but the arms were badly rusted and no longer suitable for
simple replacement as the ends of the hloes that support the metalastic
bushings looked kinda like hole saws.)  Makes a hell of a difference when
going around a corner!  Anybody out there know about the spacers (distance
pieces) that are supposed to go on the mounting bolts for the radius rods?
Larry, didn't I see a  post from you about these some time ago?
Converted to negative ground, replaced generator with alternator.  Replaced
wiring harness (missing smoke) with home-made one, putting in new fuse box
and relays for horn.  Should get those pesky turn signals hooked up any day
now!!  What the heck, the wipers work now, independantly of the brakes! Not
that I drive it in the rain...
Installed pertronix ignitor system.
Put speedo and tach in the correct positions.
Replaced broken harmonic balancer, re-cored radiator with thicker core, and
did valve job (incl no-lead valve seats and valve guides.)  New hoses and
fan belt.  Replaced belt driven fan with electric, using adjustable
thermostat.  The car seems to run best when temperature is around 170 so
when I have time I will put in a 160 degree thermostat
One of the best things I did was to re position the steering wheel with one
spoke straight up when aimed straight.  This places the other two spokes
below the speedo and tach. I can read the guages when not going around a
corner, what a concept!  And it didn't cost a dime, we tight!!

Still to come:

Disk brakes: I have the basic set-up from a '66.  Need to send the calipers
and shocks to PPP for rebuilding.  Spend more money on wheel bearings.  Well
I'm going to have it apart, I might as well....   I have Noltec bushings,
stainless brake hoses, etc.  I have an anti-sway bar (cost more on eBay than
it is worth....,) but my A-arms aren't drilled or reinforced.  New A-arms
cost about $150 each but I am loathe to drill my original ones.  Anybody got
any solutions?

Engine: Currently, I am spreading a lot of oil in the form of blue smoke
(with a red car, white shirt and blue smoke I'm about as All American as you
can get.)  About a quart every other tank of gas.  I like to think of it as
my contribution to the mosquito abatement program here in Sacramento.  Since
the valve guides mentioned above didn't reduce this any, I must conclude
that it's the rings.  I have a 1098 that I am considering rebuilding, but it
currently has 40 thousandths US rod bearings and I haven't had a look at the
mains.  Pistons are +40, but those could easily go to +60, no?  What else
should I check before commiting myself to the project?  The engine isn't
original to the car.  It has HS2 carbs.

My idea for the motor is a hot road version using an SPVP3 cam and 1.5 ratio
rockers.  Anyone out ther have any comments on this cam with a 1098?  Is
this too much cam?  Although I drive the car on the streets, we don't have
gridlock here in Sac the way it happens in bigger cities.  Right now it
doesn't seem to pull below about 3000 rpm.  I have a Maniflow intake
manifold, ram pipes and K&N filters for the HS2s.  Would do the porting
myself a la Vizard (sorry, Frank.)

Who doesn't want to do a 5-speed conversion to a driver?  Of course I do.
The synchro on the tranny is about shot anyway and I'm tired of double
clutching into first....


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