Pete,
I had the same trouble that you describe regarding your clutch not
disengaging when the pedal is all the way to the floor. My car still has
that problem and a friend's car had it too. We fixed my friends car, but I
haven't gotten to mine yet. With my car, everything is ok cold, but when
everything gets hot, it gets to the edge of not wanting to disengage very
well. I have not noticed any black particles in my fluid. I'll have to look
at that closely.
The fix: (for the clutch disenganment, I don't know about the black
particles)
First, use the upper attachment point for your slave cylindar attachment to
the clutch arm. This gives you a little bit more throw on your clutch for
the same amount of push on the clutch pedal. (It also makes the clutch even
heavier to push.)
Second, make sure that your pin connecting your clutch pedal to your master
cylindar is not worn. These wear easily, making your clutch pedal bottom out
a little earlier than normal. The hole on the clutch pedal wears also.
Older TR's had adjustable rods between the clutch pedal and the master
cylindar. That way, when things got worn, you could just lengthen the rod a
little.
What my friend and I did with his car (and I am prepared to do with mine) is
we had the clutch pedal hole drilled out a little larger and slightly off
center a little closer to the firewall. Then we installed a hard bushing and
a very hard pin. (Hopefully it will never wear out.) This gave us more push
distance on the master cylindar before the clutch pedal bottomed out. My
friend's car works perfectly now.
Hope this helps. Sorry I can't help on the particles in the fluid. I'll be
interested to see what someone else has to say on that.
Creig Houghtaling
St. Louis, MO
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