Creig:
Thank you for your response. I have isolated the problem to be within the
hydraulics. True, that little clevis pin and yoke that connects the pedal
with the cylinder does wear out, and quite quickly, too. The holes in the
yoke get elongated, and the clevis pin on my car when I got it had two deep
grooves around its shank. I thought they were machined that way, but
indeed they were a result of wear. There was as much as an inch of slop at
the end of the pedal back then! I have eliminated mechanical play in the
system as much as possible.
I would recommend against using the upper hole in the clutch release arm.
This requires you to exert more stress on the hydraulics, since it provides
less leverage. I understand that it creates greater movement of the
realease mechanism inside the bellhousing, but I would expect that it may
create more problems for you later.
I wonder if it is possible to remanufacture the master cylinder pushrod,
with its yoke, out of a muck harder material so as prevent wear? Anybody
out there have any other solutions to this area?
The black particles are almost certainly what is left of rubber in the
cylinders. The problem for me, really, is why is the proper brake fluid in
my car destroying the seals in my system, and not in everyone else's?
Thanks again!
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
1970 TR6
1973 240z
>I had the same trouble that you describe regarding your clutch not
>disengaging when the pedal is all the way to the floor. My car still has
>that problem and a friend's car had it too. We fixed my friends car, but I
>haven't gotten to mine yet. With my car, everything is ok cold, but when
>everything gets hot, it gets to the edge of not wanting to disengage very
>well. I have not noticed any black particles in my fluid. I'll have to look
>at that closely.
>
>The fix: (for the clutch disenganment, I don't know about the black
>particles)
>
>First, use the upper attachment point for your slave cylindar attachment to
>the clutch arm. This gives you a little bit more throw on your clutch for
>the same amount of push on the clutch pedal. (It also makes the clutch even
>heavier to push.)
>
>Second, make sure that your pin connecting your clutch pedal to your master
>cylindar is not worn. These wear easily, making your clutch pedal bottom out
>a little earlier than normal. The hole on the clutch pedal wears also.
> Older TR's had adjustable rods between the clutch pedal and the master
>cylindar. That way, when things got worn, you could just lengthen the rod a
>little.
>
>What my friend and I did with his car (and I am prepared to do with mine) is
>we had the clutch pedal hole drilled out a little larger and slightly off
>center a little closer to the firewall. Then we installed a hard bushing and
>a very hard pin. (Hopefully it will never wear out.) This gave us more push
>distance on the master cylindar before the clutch pedal bottomed out. My
>friend's car works perfectly now.
>
>Hope this helps. Sorry I can't help on the particles in the fluid. I'll be
>interested to see what someone else has to say on that.
>
>Creig Houghtaling
>St. Louis, MO
|