Bob Lubuz wrote:
Go straight to the > ignition/electrical. Start with the coil, connections,
and never forget
> the dist cap.
I agree with FT that you should always suspect ignition problems first. But
if one thinks about all the information Patrick provided together (carbon on
the #1 and #2 plugs, runs good when cold but not when warm, stepping on the
gas gives power loss) my first place to look would be the component that you
KNOW affects the #1 and #2 plugs, which is the front carb (and that includes
the choke for that carb that Bob K suggested).
If you insist on looking at the ignition first then I think I'd pay a little
more attention to the carboned spark plugs symptom and check the plugs (he
did replace those) and plug wires first to see if they are working, and then
MAYBE the distributor cap. The components that affect all the plugs such as
the coil, condenser, distributor wire, timing, etc. aren't usually going to
just pick on just the #1 and #2 plugs. But something apparently is.
However, it's much simpler to test to see if the carbs are dry on the
bottom (all it takes is putting your fingers under the carb) than it is to
test or replace ANY ignition part. If they're wet then I'd check a few more
things (e.g. the carb throat) but if dry then you could more than likely
eliminate flooding. I'd go straight to the easiest thing to check but
that's just my way of doing things cause I'm lazy.
We don't know the car's history (daily driver or stored for 10 years or ???)
but since it was a "new to him" car the car very well could have been
sitting around with old or contaminated gas or a rusting gas tank.
I'm truly impressed that Bob has never had a fuel delivery or carburetor
problem in 35 years of owning a Triumph....you must be living right.
Bud Rolofson
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Labuz" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
To: "Fred Thomas" <vafred@erols.com>
Cc: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@mindspring.com>; "levilevi"
<levilevi@attbi.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>; "Patrick Cantwell"
<cantwell@gte.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: TR3A Runs great til it gets warmed up!
> Fred Thomas wrote:
>
> >>>Oh and the reason it runs good when cold is that its using that extra
> >>>
> >gas
> >
> >>as
> >>
> >>>if it's being choked...I'd bet you don't have to use the choke much
when
> >>>
> >>you
> >>
> >>>first start it. Once the engine is warm though it becomes a too rich
> >>>mixture situation (and hence the black plugs) and won't run for beans.
> >>>
> >======================================================
> >
> >>Or maybe it's just that the choke isn't working well on the front carb
and
> >>pushing in the knob in the cockpit isn't actually causing the lever to
> >>
> >push
> >
> >>the jet up.
> >>
> >==========================================================
> >1- Timing
> >2- bad condenser (cutting out after warm-up)
> >3-cracked dist cap
> >4-2 bad plug wires 1 & 2
> >4A- all of the above
> >
> >5-As Bob K says above
> >6-As Bud says above
> >
> >Remember 95 % of "ALL" carb problems are electrical. "FT"
> >
>
> I would have to 99.9% agree with Fred. If your floats were plugged they
> would be plugged when the engine was cold. Go straight to the
> ignition/electrical. Start with the coil, connections, and never forget
> the dist cap. Check that little wire that goes from the coil connection
> on the back of the distributor to the points. I never had a condenser go
> bad but you never know. There is also a ground wire in the distributor,
> make sure it is in good condition. This might sound stupid, but are your
> engine ground straps grounded to the chasis correctly? Are the points
> set correctly and is the cam lubed? With me in over 35 years of Triumph
> ownership, it was always something related to the spark, not the
> carburators or fuel delivery. But there is always that .1 % lurking.....
>
> Bob Labuz
>
> 1958 TR3A
> 1974 T140V
> 1998 T-Bird
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