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TR3A 10"rear brakes wheel cylinders, etc.

To: "INTERNET:Popnglo@aol.com" <Popnglo@aol.com>
Subject: TR3A 10"rear brakes wheel cylinders, etc.
From: Dave Massey <105671.471@compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 08:04:10 -0500
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net i1BD7N8A024492
Message text written by INTERNET:Popnglo@aol.com
>Disassembled the rear brakes to resolve a cronic (but not lethal) binding 
>problem I've experianced last driving season. Found some grease in the
rear 
>drum/shoes (left/driver side) which may be the problem, along with alot of
road 
>grime/brake dust. 
>Snip<
>Any comment welcome. TIA.

It's a good thing you tackled it early.  Mine got so bad the rear brakes
would lock up with the slightest  touch of the brake pedal and would remain
locked even with the pedal released.  In my case it was a leaky wheel
cylinder.  I had rebuilt that cylinder but it continued to leak.  
Fortunately that cylinder is the same Girling unit used on the later 9 inch
brakes and are cheap and readily available.  Shoes, on the other hand, are
scarce as hen's teeth, fish ankles, straight talking politicians.  The best
route is to get your shoes relined by an industrial brake shop (if you
decide you need new linings).  It cost me $12 a shoe.

I don't know about the felt tips on the supports but they may be for
anti-rattle purposes only (anti-rattle on a TR!  chuckle) 

As a rule of thumb I disassemble the adjusters and clean then up and use
anti-sieze on the adjuster screw. After 40 odd years they gum up and become
difficult to turn and makes adjustment difficult to gauge.

After installing new cylinders, relined shoes and new hard lines on the
axle (that's another story) its a new car.

Dave Massey
57 TR3 TS18080





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