> IMO the conversion is actually harder to keep perfectly sealed than the
> original
> canister was. The filter is easier to change, but more prone to leaks (at
> least
> partially because now there are two big seals to leak instead of just
> one). And
> since the conversion block seals to the filter head exactly the same way
> as the
> canister does, you're still going to have to make that joint work. I
> fiddled
> with my conversion several times over the years and never did get it to
> stop
> dripping after a run.
>
> There have also been rumors that some of the conversions sold don't fit
> right,
> and need to be remachined.
>
> Randall
>
I agree with Randall. It seems to me that, when I made the conversion quite
a few years ago, the adapter was poorly machined to the extent that the
O-ring that seals the adapter to the filter head was not compressing
properly. Seems to me that I had to undercut the threaded portion in order
for it to work, or something like that. I can't quite remember, but I
remember that there was an issue.
The old filter works fine if you insert the housing just as Randall has
described. I too, found two gaskets in my oil filter head when I first
changed the filter, and I, too, got the filter housing "cocked" the first
time I re-installed it, which resulted in a nice leak of fresh oil, just
like Paul described.
One day I will write about the day my daughter put one quart too many in her
engine and my hasty and ill-planned attempt to remove the excess at
twilight...
Michael Marr
1960 TR3A
2000 Jag XK8
Naperville, IL
=== This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register
=== http://www.vtr.org
|