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Total 9 documents matching your query.

1. Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring (score: 1): Author: Andrew Frink <tr4@drooartz.com>; Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 14:01:09 -0600; Seems like my starting problem is a DPO wiring issue. Charged the battery, and car starts fine. Had the alternator (Delco) tested, and it is okay. Looked at the wiring, and compared it to some docume; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00599.html (8,070 bytes)
2. RE: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 16:14:28 -0700; Drew, the TR4 originally had a generator, which has considerably different wiring than your alternator. The original control box is unneeded, unless you want to keep it for appearance or as a juncti; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00603.html (10,136 bytes)
3. RE: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 16:19:00 -0700; Here's a link that might provide some insight, as well. http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml Randall; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00604.html (7,582 bytes)
4. Re: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring (score: 1): Author: "Just Brits" <justbrits@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 19:38:16 -0500; <<BATT is the output, and needs to be wired to the battery. Personally, I like to run it through the ammeter on the dash, so the ammeter correctly still indicates battery charge, but opinions vary o; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00609.html (8,017 bytes)
5. RE: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 19:33:24 -0700; You're welcome to your opinion, Ed, but I have run the configuration I recommend for almost 30 years on two different TR3As and been very happy with the results. I far prefer to have properly workin; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00610.html (9,603 bytes)
6. Re: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring (score: 1): Author: Andrew Frink <tr4@drooartz.com>; Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 21:04:52 -0600; Thanks all for the advice. I'm making a little progress, and getting my head wrapped around the issues a little better. Turns out the instructions the PO included were an article from the VTR website; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00612.html (8,836 bytes)
7. RE: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 23:10:34 -0700; I originally used several strands of steel "handy wire" (aka baling wire to those who grew up on a farm). With the ammeter out of the dash but hooked up, I turned on the headlights and noted the orig; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00615.html (8,305 bytes)
8. RE: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 10:14:41 -0700; Drew, I'd say that probably means there's a bad connection somewhere. Does the red light still come on with the key ? It's important, some alternators will not work unless the circuit through the li; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00630.html (8,925 bytes)
9. RE: Starter update #2 -- now it's wiring (score: 1): Author: "Andrew Frink" <tr4@drooartz.com>; Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:01:14 -0600; The red light came on bright with the key. After the strange flashy thing, it went to a dull red. Didn't try either of these. That'll be my fun for this evening. :-) I'm also going to try running the; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00638.html (8,079 bytes)

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