In my recent TR250 tranny rebuild, my mechanic welded the fork to the shaft in
addition to replacing the pin since that area is notorious for problems. I
pulled the tranny three times to get it rebuilt, checked for fit, and then
replacing the worn clutch I initially reinstalled after the rebuild. My point
is that pulling the transmission is a two hour job with a helper to hold nuts
and hand tools, not big deal if it can lead to identifying the real problem.
Andy Packard
Greensboro, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Wright [SMTP:mewright@eznet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 1:01 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Clutch Bleeding
Well I tried many of the suggestions offered from those who gratefully
responded, but to no avail. I tried many of the ideas to free up a frozen
flywheel and clutch, including - starting in gear, lifting the back end and
starting in 4th and depressing the clutch and brake, or quickly hitting the
starter in 4th. Tim Holbrook noted that the clutch cross shaft arm should
not move easily when the clevis pin is removed from the SC pushrod, but the
arm moves freely back and forth. It seems that the problem is internal to
the clutch fork pin. I'm afraid I'll be getting into the gearbox soon. It's
a good thing I didn't glue down the new carpets yet.
I guess this is what happens when you let any old mechanic work on these
cars when every reference suggests replacing the $10 pin while your in
there. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll keep everyone posted.
Mark Wright
Fairport, NY
1972 TR6
|