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Re: [Roadsters] speedo and tach early 67

To: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] speedo and tach early 67
From: Eddie <eddietude@socal.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 20:23:41 -0700
Or accidentally sticking a finger near it while working on the running 
car... 

That would fall in the "oops, this sucks" category! 

Eddie

Gordon Glasgow wrote:
> Good point. Still, since the drive sticks out through the seal, I'd feel
> better covering something that is going to be spinning at up to 3-4,000 rpm
> on occasion. The crevices look like a good dirt-catcher.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ehlers
> Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 7:56 PM
> To: eddietude@socal.rr.com
> Cc: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] speedo and tach early 67
>
> Hey Eddie ,
>  Gary is incorrect in stating that the speedo drive pinion in the 
> Distributor stand needs or has to be plugged .The drive pinion also has 
> a seal
>  that seals it in the stand . I assume most Roadster owners don't even 
> know that it exists  .This is the Real reason for "Oil Creep " in the Tach
> cable that ends up on your clothes ,when it leaks out of the Tach in the 
> car (Same problem with the Speedo Head too) . The Electric tach and
> speedo gives you the benefit of no more ruined clothes and cables to buy 
> :-) . With a Good seal ,it shouldn't be a real problem .
>
>  The speedo and tach cable seals are secondary to the pinion seals .Both 
> seals are the same part number . You could however try to plug the Stand 
> with who knows what sized plug or cap if you can even find something to 
> fit .You could make it totally irreversible by welding up the pinion 
> carrier and removing the pinion or making a cap device by TIG  welding  
> the aluminum end fitting of a tach cable to cap it .
> Steve
> www.risingsunperformance.com
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