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Re: Handling

To: keithw@sand.net, mgs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Handling
From: REwald9535@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 23:35:13 EST
>  1)  What do I want my MG to do?  Be fun and predictable on corners?
>  Be spectacular on a skid-pad?  Win the SCCA Runoffs?
>  
>  -You've got to have a goal when it comes to improving anything.

Amen! Although wining the runnoffs does sound good.

>  2)  How much do I understand the concept of automotive handling?

For most people the answer is not nearly as much as they thing they know
(Before you go flame on, I include myself in this group.  Perhaps I should say
that I put myself in the group that knows that he needs to know more.)

>  -If you don't know what you're talking about you're not going to get
>  very far.  If you want to mod your suspension and don't know what
>  understeer and oversteer mean, do some research.  You might save
>  some money and learn a few things.

Let's see if I have this part straight.  Understeer is when you hit the tree
with the front bumper, and oversteer is when you hit the tree with the rear
bumper, right?

>  -A lot of folks think they need to spend big money on mods but
>  the reality is their suspension is just plain worn out.

Another big amen, brother.

>  -Some driving theory can go a long way to improve the "handling"
>  of any car.  I've seen folks who can extract everything an MG can
>  offer, and other folks that shouldn't be allowed to operate a
>  bicycle without supervision.

did you ever read Chuck Yegar's autobiography, the part about his experience
flying a MIG 15 during the Korean war?  Some hot shot said that the MIG was
twice the plane the F-86 was, so Yegar sent this guy up in the MIG and he went
up in an -86.  He waxed the guy's tail 5 straight times.  Now comes the fun
part.  They landed and swaped planes, Yeager again waxed the guy's tail 5
straight times.  Moral of the story, It's the pilot not the plane.  A good
driver in a bad car will out do a bad driver in a good car. (ask the idiot the
vette who ran off the road and crashed trying to keep up with my Spifire.  It
sure was fun watching those headlights go round and round in my rear view
mirror :-)

>  -Putting every suspension gimmick in the Moss catalog on your MG
>  isn't going to help much if you keep running on $99 for a set of 4
>  "road handlers" or whatever else.  There is a big difference in tyre
>  compounds and so forth.  Cheap tyres are, well, cheap.  Some tyres
>  have more stick.  Period.  Wanna blast down the twisties embarrassing
>  every Porsche you've seen?  Well, there's all sorts of R compound DOT
>  approved tyres that'll let you do it, but don't expect 'em to last
>  more than a few thousand miles or work well in the wet.  Again, do
>  some research.

The only thing I will add here is set and check the tire pressures!!

>  6)  How much time and I willing to spend to get it right?

Don't forget $.  Speed is a function of cubic money, how fast can you afford
to go?

>  -Suspension tuning is just that:  tuning.  You are modifying a system
>  that some guys called engineers spent some time designing.  They didn't
>  just go to a catalog and pick out parts. 


I not entirly sure about this one.  There have been times working on LBC's
that I think a part was specified just because there were 10,000 left in the
warehouse.  <VBG>

>  but it does mean
>  that you can't expect to just bolt parts on.  If you want proof, come
>  spend a weekend with me while I try different toe settings.

Whoa, a whole weekend on toe settings, Now that is what I call thorogh job.
Remind me never to hang with you when you explore camber settings. <G>

>  None of this is meant to put anybody down.  Just remember, there's a
>  lot more to the car/road interface than just bolt-on goodies.  Tuning,
>  tyres, driver, all of it comes in to play, and all of it must be
>  perfect if you want "perfect" handling.

Also please don't forget that what may be considered perfect for one driver is
not perfect for another.  Just look at F1 or CART racing.  identical cars on a
given team, yet each will be set up different.  Sometimes quite a bit
different.
$.02
Rick Ewald
67 MGB roadster
99 Volvo S 80 T-6

In a message date
d 1/2/99 7:48:24 PM Pacific Standard Time, keithw@sand.net writes:

> Reading Kelvin Dodd's latest comments on "Re: Suspension Lowering",
>  I thought about the term "handling".  Knowing people who think
>  "handling" means "ride comfort", I think there are some points that
>  should be made to all those who want to improve their MG's handling.
>  
>  There are some questions that should be asked:
>  
>  1)  What do I want my MG to do?  Be fun and predictable on corners?
>  Be spectacular on a skid-pad?  Win the SCCA Runoffs?
>  
>  -You've got to have a goal when it comes to improving anything.
>  
>  2)  How much do I understand the concept of automotive handling?
>  
>  -If you don't know what you're talking about you're not going to get
>  very far.  If you want to mod your suspension and don't know what
>  understeer and oversteer mean, do some research.  You might save
>  some money and learn a few things.
>  
>  3)  What is the present state of my suspension?
>  
>  -A lot of folks think they need to spend big money on mods but
>  the reality is their suspension is just plain worn out.
>  
>  4)  What do I know about driving?
>  
>  -Some driving theory can go a long way to improve the "handling"
>  of any car.  I've seen folks who can extract everything an MG can
>  offer, and other folks that shouldn't be allowed to operate a
>  bicycle without supervision.
>  
>  5)  What kind of tyres am I willing to pay for?
>  
>  -Putting every suspension gimmick in the Moss catalog on your MG
>  isn't going to help much if you keep running on $99 for a set of 4
>  "road handlers" or whatever else.  There is a big difference in tyre
>  compounds and so forth.  Cheap tyres are, well, cheap.  Some tyres
>  have more stick.  Period.  Wanna blast down the twisties embarrassing
>  every Porsche you've seen?  Well, there's all sorts of R compound DOT
>  approved tyres that'll let you do it, but don't expect 'em to last
>  more than a few thousand miles or work well in the wet.  Again, do
>  some research.
>  
>  6)  How much time and I willing to spend to get it right?
>  
>  -Suspension tuning is just that:  tuning.  You are modifying a system
>  that some guys called engineers spent some time designing.  They didn't
>  just go to a catalog and pick out parts.  Every length, adjustment, spring
>  and shock rate is there for a reason.  That doesn't mean you can't make it
>  "better" (or at least better for your application), but it does mean
>  that you can't expect to just bolt parts on.  If you want proof, come
>  spend a weekend with me while I try different toe settings.
>  
>  None of this is meant to put anybody down.  Just remember, there's a
>  lot more to the car/road interface than just bolt-on goodies.  Tuning,
>  tyres, driver, all of it comes in to play, and all of it must be
>  perfect if you want "perfect" handling.
>  
>  -Keith Wheeler

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