We always use Moss's studs, have never had this problem.
Lawrie
-----Original Message-----
From: MGSMGBGT@aol.com <MGSMGBGT@aol.com>
To: JustBrits@aol.com <JustBrits@aol.com>; owner-mgs@autox.team.net
<owner-mgs@autox.team.net>; Lawrie@britcars.com <Lawrie@britcars.com>;
doddk@mossmotors.com <doddk@mossmotors.com>; ninab@scoresheet.com
<ninab@scoresheet.com>
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, April 17, 1999 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Bolt sizes generally needed for MGB engine rebuild
>
>In a message dated 4/15/1999 8:44:12 AM, JustBrits@aol.com wrote:
>
><<In a message dated 4/14/99 8:22:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
>Lawrie@britcars.com writes:
>
><< Actually, it's a very good idea to replace them all unless you know they
> have been replaced recently. They stretch not just from abuse but from
use!
> Since we started making a habit of replacing all the studs during an
engine
> overhaul or a valve job, we have never had the problem (so often mentioned
> here on the list) of coolant weeping out over the ID plate. (And we don't
> add bits of wire, silicone sealer, or any of that stuff the factory didn't
> originally believe necessary!)
> >>
>
>Ditto from the Mid West!!
>
>Ed
>>>
>
>I do not disagree, but have become fearful because of the lack of quality
of
>the new studs I've been getting. I frequently have had one let go at about
>40 ft/lbs on my way up. Generally the difficulty is poor steel used in the
>stud. I have friends who are blacksmiths, both artist and harrier, who
tell
>me that this is a common problem. Removing a broken stud from the block is
>not fun, and I have rarely had a re-used stud let go. I have purchased
studs
>from all of the usual suspects, with similar results. If you have a better
>source, let me know. I'm putting an engine togather now and would love to
>find a solution to this problem.
>
>Bob Shaw
>Lincoln, NE
>
|