Dan Hackney wrote:
> I wouldn't either after this afternoon. I stuck it back in there and
> it began to seep coolant around the bottom of the plug. Then, the
> sucker wouldn't come out so I had to drill a hole in it and pull with
> a piece of stiff wire.
>
> Four out of four auto parts houses in Chapel Hill were either out of
> stock or didn't carry 1-5/8" disk type freeze plug. I'll go get one
> in Siler City tomorrow.
>
> What are the expert opinions on whether to use sealant or not and
> what type?
Almost everybody says not to use sealant, but I always did in my MGA
engines.
I always used the permanently flexible aircraft grade sealant in the
little cans. Can be obtained at most Cessna shops and Piper shops
and many better auto racing parts places. Permatex makes a good
version. It's always either blue, red-violet or purple, with the
little brush on the can lid. Any I've ever used was in a metal can
rather than a plastic one.
Never had one leak, ever. I would clean out the hole, apply some of
the sealant around the edge, pop the plug in with the convex curve
to the outside and use a brass drift or 3/8" extension to whack the
plug right in the middle. This partially flattens it and expands the
outer circumference to seal against the hole.
Here's the description from the Jag-Lovers' page:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/books/xj-s/04-Engine2.html (control F
"freeze")
********************
FREEZE PLUGS:
Apparently a US-only misnomer; English-speaking countries
reportedly properly call them "core plugs." Some US parts places
call them "expansion plugs". Alex Dorne clarifies, "I can tell you
that the freeze plugs are not meant to rescue the block if the
coolant freezes. Due to the casting process they were necessary to
make mantling of the block possible." Of course, that doesn't mean
they won't pop out when the coolant freezes! However, in warmer
climates the most common failure is rust-through.
If you need to replace these plugs for whatever reason, you will
find several versions available, including simple steel or brass
cup-shaped plugs, and copper or rubber assemblies with a bolt
through the center for compressing the plug to expand it into the
opening. Dorne: "Most common material seems to be steel for
automotive use but when working in the marine business I found out
that copper is used on "factory built" marine engines to prevent
corrosion problems when fresh water cooled.
Note that the original plugs are concave side out, but replacements
are installed the other way. "Installing the plugs is a piece of
cake (if the block is out of the vehicle, of course). Place the plug
in its seat, convex side out, hold a ball ended hammer in the center
of the plug, give it a hit with a second hammer. This flattens the
plug and increases the diameter a little bit. I think it's a good
idea to use some non-hardening sealant on the seat before placing
the plug."
If the cupped plug is a little too tight to install, it is a simple
matter to make it a little smaller. Set the plug in a large socket
or box end wrench, put a steel ball (or the head of a ballpien
hammer) in the center and hit it with a hammer.
*****************
-Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com
--
Red Dirt Rangers (Rocky on piano): http://www.reddirtrangers.com
JJ Cale Live (w/Rocky): http://www.rocky-frisco.com/calelive.htm
The Luggage Fan Club: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/luggage-fans
///
/// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
///
|