Steve,
Take the shoe off the sawzall, and use the shortest metal cutting blade
(3" - 4"). Then you can hold the sawzall just to the rear of front bolt,
and angle up slightly (towards 11:00 position). Cut downwards at that
angle. If you hold the sawzall back just enough that the blade doesn't
contact the spring mount, you will have success! The saw might jump
around a little and bend the blade, just straighten it out and go back
in! You will need to cut both sides of the bolt obviously... A little
cutting oil will help immensely...
I've done several cars this way over the past few years, and it works
very well.
Marc
Steve Shoyer wrote:
> I've gotten the U-bolts off, and now I'm working on the front bolts. The
>nots are off on both sides. One bolt turns but will not skid out (yes, I've
>hit it with a hammer, repeatedly). The other side is rusted in place and
>won't turn. Both sides have gotten B'Laster for a couple of weeks now. I
>tried the torch, but mostly got smoke from the bushings. I also tried a
>reciprocating saw, but can't quite get it in place without snapping the blade
>on the rear of the mounting point. The saw is blocked by the jack stand
>holding up the car at other angles.
>
> Any other suggestions? I'm not looking forward to the rear shackles, as
>there's even less room to work there.
>
> --Steve (1980 MGB)
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