Hello and welcome. I would echo Jacks statements. I have seen several
unrestored solid original cars and they never had good gaps at this area.
Its probably a good way to tell if a car has been restored. If the gaps are
even then there is a good chance that somebody outside the factory tried to
even these gaps. One thing you might want to try if these gaps really bother
you is to loosen all of the rear body mounts (from the "B" posts back) and
jack up the body from the rear. Then you can try and shim the rearmost
mounts with some sort of washers and finally rebolt the body down. You might
have to loosen or maybe even remove the rear bumpers to do this and like
Jack said its going to be a lot of work fiddling with the shims and what
not. When I tried to do this on my TR6 it was like the proverbial dog
chasing its tail until I got so frustrated I had to enlist the help of
professionals. I should point out that I am doing a body off and that I had
alot of rust replacement panels that I installed and I'm sure that some of
the difficulty that I experienced was no doubt caused by the dreaded current
owner. Good luck with whatever you try, if anything and once again welcome.
Regards Craig Bentley
-----Original Message-----
From: johnw@wrq.com <johnw@wrq.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, April 03, 1998 9:49 AM
Subject: New lister; have a question on TR6.
>
> Hey, I'm the new guy to the list. My true love is British motorcycles,
> but my daily driver(s) have been a '69 MGB and a '74 TR6. It's the
> latter to which I turn to you for direction...
>
> What is the best way to jack up the rear end of the TR6 when you want
> both chassis rails on 'stands? I have used the jack directly on the
> differential, but I am concerned that I am putting excess strain on
> both the body of the dif., and the four "studs" that hold this item in
> place to the body. Can I continue to use the dif. to jack up the car,
> or should I move to the "one-side, then the other-side" method?
>
> Second question is much more involved. The car has about zero body
> rot, but I still have a solid gap between the door and the rear body
> panels, especially at the top. One would have to imagine a "V" to get
> a picture of the gap from bottom to top. I am told this condition can
> be corrected by replacing the worn rubber between the body and the
> chassis. I can also reduce this gap to nil by raising the rear of the
> car. Is the solution as simple as shimming via new rubber at the rear
> end, or am I looking elsewhere?
>
> Thanks mightily
> John
> johnw@wrq.com
>
>
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