I have 4 splined hubs, but they are for my wire wheels (courtesy of Dan
Masters). I was just using it for thickness and to see if it would work. I
am going to look for one that is spun that I can weld the center piece into,
yada, yada.
I'm surprised that no one has said that they removed their hubs with some
duck tape and baling wire yet!!
Bryan
bdstinocher@sewsus.com
502-782-7397 xt. 2284
68 TR 250 CD 5853 L
----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler [SMTP:Brad.Kahler@141.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 1998 5:46 PM
To: Stinocher, Bryan D.
Subject: RE: Removing Rear Hubs
> As a matter of fact, I tried that today with a splined hub, but
with my
> dad's two-legged puller. I thought that if the hub bends because
it is too
> thin, if you put another layer of steel on it, you may be able to
get by
> without bending it. I think it would have worked, but I noticed
that the
> splined hub didn't lie completely flush with the rear hub (rubbing
in the
> center). I'm going to go to a junkyard, etc., to find one and rig
one up.
You can't add a whole lot of thickness to the hub adapter because of
the
length of the wheel studs. I would think if you get a good mating
surface
where everything is nice and flat then it aught to work. If you
think about it
the stress of pulling would be taken up by all four points evenly
which is
better than you would get in most presses.
> Thanks for the input. When the mind can mull things over for a
while, even
> one as slow as mine, it is nice to know that what I had tried is
what
> someone else had already done with some success.
Right.
> (Hey, if you don't want one of your splines...)
I thought you had a hub already?
Brad (Lincoln Nebraska 402-464-1502)
1964 Spitfire4 BFC25720L
1966 TR4A CT72398L (Now a parts car)
1961 TR4 CT288L (Now with OD!!)
1959 TR3 TS41311L
1951 Dodge Truck 82217766 B-3-B-108
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