Steve,
I always used "Lubriplate" to coat the bearings when assembling an
engine. Unlike engine oil, it is a paste and won't run off. This is
particularly important if you are restoring a whole car and don't plan
to fire up the engine right after completing it.
If the engine sits for a while, you will end up with practically dry
bearings by the time you fire it.
Regards,
Joe
Steve Nabors wrote:
>
> Fellow listers,
> On pulling the pan, I discovered my crank had a 010
> 010
> stamped on one of the counterweights near the 1st piston. Graham Stretch
>noted that this made perfect sense and that the crank had been turned down
>0.010" on both the main journals and rod journals and I should find that the
>backs of the bearings will have an 010 on them. I pulled one main and two rod
>bearings and even though they were apparently of different manufactures or
>manufacturer runs, they all had an 010 U/S on them. I take the U/S to be
>Under/Size. All the journals look good so far. Thanks Graham. When the parts
>come in, I was wondering about the assembly lube I should use and priming the
>oil pump. I was thinking about simply using castrol 20w50 for assembly of all
>the bearings and thrust washers as well as priming the pump. I plan to turn
>the engine over(coil wire pulled) till the oil pressure gets up and then crank
>it.
> Is engine oil fine for assembly lube/oil pump primer lube or should I use
>axle grease or some of that camshaft break in lube I've been reading about on
>the list?
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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