Bradley,
Thanks for the reply. I was reading a book on the weekend and it suggested
(as I had decided to try anyway..) using a dial gauge or vernier callipers
to measure the valve lift from the rocker arms with the rocker covers off. I
wouldn't expect to get totally accurate readings from this, but what I'd be
looking for is one valve with less lift than another. From what I've read,
camshafts don't wear out evenly, but tend to go on one or two lobes only. If
all 16 valves have the same amount of lift, it would indicate to me that the
camshaft is OK. Obviously I'll have a better look when it comes time to swap
the cylinder heads over.
The question of timing chain stretch is an interesting one, does anyone know
how this could be looked at without dismantling the engine? Could you tell
if the chain was stretched by moving the crank backwards and forwards to see
if there is any 'delay' in the camshaft moving as well?
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: Bradley Temperley [mailto:braddles@bigpond.com]
Sent: Sunday, 7 February 1999 02:02
To: Simon Sparrow
Cc: Buick-Rover-V8 mailing list (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Camshafts
You should also check the state of the timing chain. If this has stretched
your
cam timing will be out. You'll probably notice economy getting worse around
town before any loss of upper end power.
The original chain was single row with nylon toothed sprocket for quietness.
An
australian Rollmaster double row chain and sprocket set is about A$120 and
about
A$95 for a set of standard hydraulic lifters.
I don't have any suggestions about checking the cam in situ but perhaps an
engine builder can 'measure' the cam for you.
I've been told by a friend who has swapped Rover cams that the Rover
workshop
manual records the angles differently to the way cam manufacturers do it so
the
numbers might seem way out. Most info I've seen suggests that the stock
standard cam is great when you want to keep low end torque.
#$^)
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