If you were Masten Gregory, you would just jump.
Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com
Cell: 319.464.4711
> On Aug 15, 2015, at 8:00 PM, John Hasty <jhasty@mhc-law.com> wrote:
>
> With no roll bar you should consider the period technique... One lap belt for
> you and another on the passenger seat tightly drawn so when you flip you can
> lay down across the seats and grab the passenger lap belt and hold on!!!!!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> Hi.
> Thanks for the replies. I'm thinking a four or five point restraint is what
> I want but getting the attachment points for the shoulder belts might be
> tough. I am considering welding in an attachment bracket between the rear
> fenderwells and keeping it hidden below what I would call the rear seat top
> or cubby hole top or whatever that area behind the seat is that currently is
> carpeted and hides all the junk I put behind the seat. I thought 1.5 or 2.0
> inch steel tubing with .125 wall thickness would be more than plenty and then
> screwing 7/16 eye bolts to it through the carpet as attachment points. That
> way only the eye bolts and the belts will be visible from above. Any thoughts?
> P.J.
>
> Install grade 5 eye hook bolts. Two for the lap belt and two behind the
> drivers seat maybe on the rear bulkhead for the shoulder belts. Location is
> important. Can't be too sharp an angle. I've done this in several
> street/track cars. They work great. The rear hooks on my cars were hidden
> under the rear seat. Then buy yourself a new 4 pt harness with snap in
> attachments. U are good to go. If u want to add the 5th hook for the anti
> submarine strap under ur seat, go ahead then get a 5 pt harness.
>
> Thanks
> Todd Redmond
>
>>
>> Hi All.
>> I'm looking to upgrade my stock seat belts(68 GT6, the tech inspector let
>> it slide but told me for the next track day I need to improve) but with it
>> being mostly a street car with no roll bar I'm limited. Any suggestions?
>> Thanks. P.J.
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