Dave:
well, I sure wouldn't take the risk myself unless I had more relible numbers
to work with.
To me, this is an NHRA Pro-Stock kind of idea. What I mean is, it MIGHT be
worth using in a very competitive class where there are many folks who have
done just about everything else they can to get horsepower. I'm not yet in
that position, and I don't think that describes my racing class, either.
But maybe some folks on the list are in that position.
Russ, #1226B
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Dahlgren [mailto:ddahlgren@snet.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 5:27 AM
To: Russel Mack
Cc: Glenn Ridlen; rgribble; land-speed@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Dry sump
I have no idea what it takes to run a dry sump pump vs. an internal pump. I
buy
them from weaver and consider it the price of keeping the bearings happy.. I
would suspect it takes several foot lbs to turn from my experience priming
and
engine that has on though. By the same token if it takes 3 hp to turn one.
then
you need a 3 hp dc electric motor to turn it with enough current capacity to
run
the pump full power for at least 5 minutes.. maybe on a bike engine it is 1
hp
but that is still a fair amount of electricity. If the engine makes 100 hp
or
101 do you really think you will find the difference in performance vs the
risk
involved?
BTW most engines run better with an alternator connected. they only draw for
power what is consumed in power in the car. If you make any serious power or
run
over 7000 rpm I am real sure you ought to have one. The dwell time for a
coil is
fixed.. if you lower the voltage the power for the spark is proportionately
less..especially with inductive ignition. a cd is not as bad but it is made
to
step up the battery to around 500 volts for the coil primary this is with
13.7
to 14 volts. if you only have 12 do the math.. If you have a bike engine
that
turns 14000 rpm voltage is everything in my book.
Dave
Russel Mack wrote:
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