Hi all,
I have taken this rust figting problem a little furter...
I deliver all my rusty parts to a lokal galvanizing firm. I even deliver
some oily/greased parts there too.
They remove the grease and rust electrically, and put on a thin layer of
zink afterwards.
(I am pretty shure they electronically removes any paint as well.)
This of course is not suitable for all parts, such as brakecylinders
etc. But it is very neat to deliver a cardbox of dirty parts, and fetch
a box of clean galvanized parts a few days later. The local galvanizing
shop does this rather cheap. I'm not shure how it is any other place,
but I think it is worth checking. Here I usually pay per kilo. I guess I
have to pay $50-60 for a 2x2x2 ft box filled with various parts. (I
think it is the finish which cost, and not the cleaning and galvanizing)
It saves you work, rustremover and paint. And everything look as new
when it returns.
But if it's not saving money (for me it even does) i think it is well
worth it.
As a word of visdom at last: don't galvanize brakedrums and other parts
that you don't want a layer of metal on.
I usally use it for brackets, tubes, nuts and bolts, doorlocks, well all
metalpieces I have to sandblast and paint.
I guess it is not any good for engine and brake cylinders.
Brgds,
> _\\///_
> (' O-O ') EMAIL: Harald.Sakshaug@DataPower.NO
> -ooO-(_)-Ooo------- Harald Sakshaug -- 74160652 -----
> URL:
> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3011/
>
>
> -----Opprinnelig melding-----
> Fra: Blair, John [SMTP:JBlair@scn.spawar.navy.mil]
> Sendt: 14. juni 1999 13:30
> Til: 'morgans@autox.team.net'
> Emne: RE: CorroDip (Corrosion Dissolver)
>
> As Tony points out that the CorroDip's major ingrediant is Phosphoric
> Acid.
> There
> Are several products readily available here in the US - the 2 I use
> most are
> Oshpo
> And DuPonts Metal conditioner. Both are available at most automotive
> paint
> supply houses.
>
> These products are very good and do work.
>
> I've been using them since the late 60s. If you haven't read my
> articles on
> painting
> And fighting rust. If not, it might be worth a quick read.
>
> John
>
> SOL's Morgan Web - www.team.net/www/morgan
> <http://www.team.net/www/morgan>
> Bricklin web - www.bricklin <http://www.bricklin> .org
>
>
> John T. Blair
> jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil
> SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake jblair@exis.net
> <mailto:jblair@exis.net>
> (home)
> Chesapeake, VA (757) 523-8133
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ARoman4047@aol.com [SMTP:ARoman4047@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 11, 1999 9:41 PM
> To: Trmgafun@aol.com; carfindr@tiac.net
> Cc: Morgans@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: CorroDip (Corrosion Dissolver)
>
> Hi there...
> Weekend update on the Corrodip
> thread...Backtracked
> OxySolve
> and it's
> the same Phosphoric Acid based stuff (scientific term), as
> Rust-Mort, X-Tend,
> Etc.
> Liquid Engineering (manufacturer of CorroDip), hasn't responded
> to
> my e-mail
> yet,
> concerning a US distributor...
> Any Australians on the list care to try
> <www.liquideng.com> and
> see if
> the product even comes this far north? Or try a local e-mail
> <Info@liquideng.com>
> By the way in my search for OxySolve, I ended up
> at
> the
> "Swedish Brick"
> web site for I-Rollers (Volvos for those sans a Cat'lic
> education),
> and the
> consensus
> for rust prevention/treatment was POR-15, with the usual
> caveats...Expense,
> short
> shelf life once opened, and difficulty in top-coating...
> CorroDip sounds wonderful...but then again so did
> engine
> rebuild pellets...
> Tony in NJ
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