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Re: [oletrucks] Welding

To: "WR Teto" <monadnoc@crystal-mtn.com>,
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Welding
From: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 19:30:19 -0600
This is helpful. I too am getting kinda tired of imposing on the local
welder ( a great guy) and would like to get my own welding equipment. I also
know nothing about it. I am looking at the Lincoln Model SP-125 (115v) or
the SP170T (220v). Problem is, I am certain I will need more than just the
complete MIG system. How do you cut and shape metal if you are in a small
shop? What other equipment do I need to round out a good welding system? I
dont want a huge acetylene torch system so would one of those smaller
portable units be as effective? I plan on using shielding gas as its more
efficient. Thanks for the help!

Deve
50 3100
49 3600
www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html

----- Original Message -----
From: "WR Teto" <monadnoc@crystal-mtn.com>
To: "Ole Trucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Welding


> Jim, MIG welding is the easiest to learn and you can become reasonably
adept in a short time.  TIG
> welding is a bit more difficult and the cost of the machine is more as
well.  You can get some
> inexpensive stick machines, but they don't have the versatility of a MIG
welder, and it's harder to
> lay down a consistent bead without a lot of practice.
>
> MIG welders can be often be used with both hard wire and flux-cored wire.
Using flux core has the
> advantage of not needing shielding gas, but it produces a lot of spatter
and it's more difficult to
> use "out of position", that is welding vertical or overhead.  Using
regular hard wire requires a
> shielding gas of either CO2 or a mixture, usually 75/25 which is 75%
Argon, 25% CO2.  The latter is
> better suited for out of positon welding, but is more costly than straight
CO2.  I pay around $17
> for a short bottle (size??...18-24" high) for 75/25.  I do all my welding
with .030" diameter wire,
> which runs around $30 for an 11 pound spool, but that lasts quite a while.
I've installed a front
> suspension, rear end, and done plenty of body work and I'm still on the
same spool, though it's
> nearly at its end.
>
> I'm using a Miller MIG machine, since that's all we use at work (we have
about 150 440 volt welders
> in the shop where I'm a welding inspector), and I got a discount when I
purchased the welder.  There
> are cheaper welders around, notably through Harbor Freight, TIP tools,
Daytona MIG, Eastwood, etc.
> but I have never used anything except a Miller or Lincoln.
>
> Learning to weld can be frustrating at first.  At least for me since I
inspect welds for quality all
> day long, so I'm pretty critical and I couldn't believe how lousy mine
looked when I first started!
> Someone else will probably be a lot less critical than I was!  Once you
learn to put down a good
> bead however, you will wonder how you ever got along without a welder.  A
good way to learn quickly
> is find someone who can weld to show you the ropes and you'll get the hang
of it quicker than trial
> and error on your own.  Everyone who rips apart trucks and puts them back
together should have a
> welder in the garage...good luck with your choices.
>
> Wally / Templeton, MA
> 53 3100 rod project
>
>
>
>
>
> > Now for the question.  What type of welding should I start with - mig,
tig,
> > arc, ???.
> >
> > After that is determined, I will work on equipment.
> >
> > Thanks again for all your help.
> >
> > Jim V.
>
>
>
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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