Mail Archive Search: <+subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*warning\s+light\s+and\s+alternator\s*$/>

Results:

References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*warning\s+light\s+and\s+alternator\s*$/: 25 ]

Total 25 documents matching your query.

1. warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: John Hobson <goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 09:31:23 +0000 (GMT); You remember that battery warning light that was flickering last week? Well it wasn't just being a bit odd, it was trying to tell me that my alternator was on it's way out! Coming back from work on F; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00402.html (8,641 bytes)
2. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: Robert Gunther <rjgunthe@bellatlantic.net>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 07:16:50 -0500; Run down to "Radio Shack" and buy a cheap voltmeter, VOM or DVM. They can be purchased for about 10 bucks. Voltage s/b around 12 volts. without the engine running, and 13 volts with the engine chargi; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00407.html (9,349 bytes)
3. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: John Hobson <goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 14:29:20 +0000 (GMT); I was thinking of taking a look inside the old one, what's the best way to get the bolt off the end as it's on a spinning column. Is it ok to jam a screw in the fan bit to stop it from turning? Will; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00410.html (10,762 bytes)
4. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: Robert Gunther <rjgunthe@bellatlantic.net>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 09:44:57 -0500; Hi John, Most likely it's not the brushes, but the diode pack. I'm not sure how to actually take it apart. Have you considered a GM conversion?? The rebuilt lucas alternators sometimes have problems.; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00411.html (11,723 bytes)
5. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: Vic Whitmore <vicwhit@home.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 10:23:11 -0500; I agree that it is usually the diode pack. The diodes get so hot that they melt the solder holding them to the base (you have to see one to understand what I mean). I have also seen the lead melt but; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00412.html (13,185 bytes)
6. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: "T. .R. Dafforn" <td214@cam.ac.uk>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 15:27:58 +0000; Its fairly easy to disassemble. Undo the bolts holding the plastic back on the alternator, and then you should eb able to see the back of the 2 brushes, one in the centre of the spindle and one next; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00413.html (13,274 bytes)
7. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 11:14:30 -0700; Your mechanic was right as far as he went. That symptom could also point to several other things including a burned out bulb and a loose or broken wire. Basically, anything in that whole circuit tha; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00420.html (10,351 bytes)
8. RE: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: "Graziano, Michael" <michael.graziano@csfb.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 14:20:03 -0500; Something I noticed with my Midget. When I had the LUCAS alternator, the ignition light came on when I turned the key, but went off when the engine started (or alternator started charging). Once I co; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00428.html (13,360 bytes)
9. RE: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: flinters <flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 11:56:11 -0800 (PST); A Spit converted to the GM alternator setup will have the ignition light glow at low RPM when you first start, but the moment you rev up the engine once, it will then stay off the entire time the car; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00429.html (9,685 bytes)
10. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: "Ptegler" <ptegler@gouldfo.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 15:11:58 -0500; It's simply a matter of the cut-in point. The Delco (GM) circuit design has a much lower 'drop-out' point than the old Lucas design. Once you rev it and it breaks into regulation, the engine has to d; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00430.html (14,506 bytes)
11. RE: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: "David A. Templeton" <davidt@opentext.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 15:53:51 -0500; Be afraid, be very afraid..... :-) No spam pls David A. Templeton Open Text Corp. Waterloo, ON Canada WebSite: http://trandmustang.homestead.com Mailing List: http://www.egroups.com/group/wbcc '74 T; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00432.html (9,279 bytes)
12. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: PorscheRcr@aol.com; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 16:05:26 EST; << I'm switching to a Ford altenator! lol... I have one of those Laura.. Of course it's attached to a Ford engine in the GT8 :) Bill J. '68 GT8; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00433.html (8,796 bytes)
13. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: "Ken C" <sdspitfire@worldnet.att.net>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 14:51:22 -0800; Just go to your local electronics store and pick up a 5 ohm, 5 watt resistor and wire it across the ignition light. The alternator starts working right away and the light goes out at low rpm, no need; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00434.html (9,411 bytes)
14. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: John Hobson <goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 11:18:32 +0000 (GMT); It still struggled after I had switched off the lights, but only around 3000-4000rpm in 1st & 2nd gears (I didn't get into 3rd because of the heavy traffic). It didn't struggle hugely, not like when; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00449.html (12,448 bytes)
15. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: "T. .R. Dafforn" <td214@cam.ac.uk>; Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 12:54:43 +0000; Hi John If you think its electric it could be that the coil is buggered, not giving enough juice at high revs? Not sure of a way to test this though (any help from the list?) Whatever, Halfords sell; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00451.html (13,900 bytes)
16. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: John Hobson <goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 13:02:54 +0000 (GMT); excuse my ignorance, but which bit is the coil? What does it do? cheers John -- "T. .R. Dafforn" <td214@cam.ac.uk> wrote: > Hi John ____________________________________________________________; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00453.html (15,163 bytes)
17. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: "Luke Lewis" <lukage@home.com>; Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 09:21:31 -0500; Mine does that too - plus it makes a neat whirring sound! Luke -- Original Message -- From: "flinters" <flinters@picarefy.com> To: "Graziano, Michael" <michael.graziano@csfb.com> Cc: "'Joe Curry'" <s; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00456.html (10,578 bytes)
18. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: John Hobson <goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 14:35:27 +0000 (GMT); I'll get a new coil from halfords on the way home. I notice that you can get a high performance coil from Rimmers for about #10 more, do you think there's any point in getting a performance coil? Wil; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00457.html (18,591 bytes)
19. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: Nolan Penney <npenney@erols.com>; Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 09:42:47 -0500; Off hand, I'd suspect your voltage regulator.; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00459.html (8,807 bytes)
20. Re: warning light and alternator (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 28 Nov 2000 09:38:53 -0600; I would agree that 16.9V sounds too much. The cause of this is almost certainly the alternator - this is all the more likely because you took a working, used one, rather than a reconditioned (i.e. g; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00462.html (11,079 bytes)

Current List: 1 - 20
Page: [1] [2]