> When trying to get the water tower loose, and failing, I'd try making
> some sort of seal that you dropped in over the thermostat and filing the
> area with a water/vinegar mix.
Typically the R16 tower becomes 'one with the head' because of
corrosion between the long studs and the tower. The coolant isn't
(supposed to be) in this area - just steel bolts, aluminum surround,
lots of heat, time, pressure, and probably a little moisture seepage.
After a few years the dissimilar metals pretty much fuse together.
Lots of penetrating oil, hammering, cursing, and what-all will often
result in bruised knuckles, bruised tower, and bruised ego.
Many years ago, a master machinist I knew used a ball-peen
hammer to seriously dent the living daylights out of the areas
surrounding the studs. I thought he was nuts (and the tower ended
up with one heck of a 'shot-peened' look), but the hammering caused
the metal to expand and release the studs. HOWEVER, I would be
very, very hesitant to try this myself (as in: I'm not going to do it!).
If you do manage to pry it loose, it's been suggested that, after
cleaning things up, to slather the studs with grease to prevent a
repeat performance in a few years.
Good luck. I've been unsuccessful at getting the tower on my
R16 off, and have decided that "if it ain't broken..."
-- John
John F Sandhoff sandhoff@csus.edu Sacramento, CA
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