Here is how I do it:
1. Get a nail whose diameter is the same as the pin. The nail must be
long enough to remain flush in the hole at one end and stick out the
other side of the door/window handle escutcheon on the other side.
2. Saw the head of the nail off so you have something which can pass
right through the hole.
3. Get a slim flat point punch (I doubt this is the correct term for
this type of punch but it's the kind which doesn not have a pointy end
but a flat one) whose end diameter is about the same as the pin.
4. Using electrical tape, tape the pin to the end of the punch. Do not
cover the entire pin, only as much of its lenghth as is neede to have it
stay attached to the punch.
5. Using a screwdriver (or whatever) pry the handle and escutcheon so
that you can get the nail through the hole. Once engaged in the hole
pass it through so it is flush with the hole in the handle at one end
and sticking out the edge of the escuthcheon at the other (it is
important that it sticks out cause that's how you keep it from getting
stuck in there when the real pin gets seated).
6. Now you may need to pry the escutcheon back with a couple of
screwdrivers inserted parallel to the pin's direction and have someone
press the door panel back. Insert the punch with pin on the end and line
it up with the flush end of the nail.
7. Using a suitable tool (hammer worked for me) punch the pin into
position. The nail should pop out the other end and the panel and
escutcheon snap into place and voila!
This has worked for me but I had my dad to help me (actually he came up
with most of the technique!). Since I had the door panels off recently I
had a lot of practice in refining this method. By the time I got to the
fourth handle, it only took about 5 minutes.
Good luck!
Peter Zaborski
76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
Calgary AB Canada
> -----Original Message-----
> From: scott suhring [SMTP:suhring@lancnews.infi.net]
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 1997 10:22 PM
> To: Martin_A._Secrest@NEB.VOA.GOV
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Windows and crank pins
>
> Martin_A._Secrest@NEB.VOA.GOV wrote:
> >
> > Let*s talk *windows* for a moment, shall we?
> >
> > Surely someone must know how to do this properly. I have a door
> trim pad off on my GT6 -- that*s the easy part. But I recall that the
> last time I had to reassemble a
> > window crank, I just about lost my mind trying to reinsert the
> window crank pin.
> > What is the trick for doing this? (My mental health may depend on
> your answer...)
> >
> > Also -- what commonly contributes to windows that are hard to crank
> up and down?
> > The crank winder springs in my GT6 are noisy and binding, even when
> lubricated -- is this part of the problem?
> >
> > --
> > Martin Secrest
> > 73 GT6 III
> > 74 Spitfire 1500
>
> Martin:
>
> Besides walking away from the task when getting totally frustrated and
> returning after cooling down, the best method I have found is this:
>
> If you are using the "solid pins", good luck! They tend to be too
> small
> in diameter to allow them to stand up in the hole to position for
> pusing down when you are also pusing the handle back against the
> spring.
> The answer, go to your local auto parts dealer or good hardware store
> and
> buy some role pins. These can be adjusted in diameter (you usually
> don't
> need to) by inserting a knife blade in the seem of the role and gently
>
> prying. The idea is to get the diameter to the size that the pin will
> fit in the hole but remain snug so it will stay vertical when you are
> pushing in the handle to line up the holes. Insert the pin in the
> handle
> so it remains verticle but does not extend past the bottom of the hole
> (I think you can figure out why). Align the handle so the pin/hole
> matches
> where the crank stub hole is and press back to allign the holes.
> Although you can't see when the holes are alined, a few tries
> (honestly, not many) and the pin will engage the hole and then it's
> in.
> I use an awl to push the pin since it is long, the tip fits into the
> top
> of the role pin, and the shaft is thin so you don't need alot of
> clearance
> between handle and door panel.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Scott Suhring
> Elizabethtown, PA
> '70 TR6
> >
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