I just went through the same exercise on my TR3. The bigest lesson for
me was that persistance and patience are THE key. After lots of help
from the list I managed to get head off. I did not want to try the rope
trick for fear of disturbing the wet liners (and the figure 8 seal). So
the way I did it was: After removing all the nuts (the studs stayed in
the block), I soaked the studs in liquid wrench once a day; after about
a week I was able to lft the front of the head about 2 mm (I did this
with a wooden wedge between the water pump and the part of the head that
sticks out the front to attach the thermostate housing, this way I did
not touch the mating surfaces of the head/block); with the head up like
this I used folded paper as a spacer and inserted then between the block
and head as far back as I could; with the wooden wedge removed and using
VERY little torque I put the nuts back on the front studs and lower the
head rocking on the folded paper; more folded paper at the back now;
remove the nuts from the studs; wooden wedge again; more folded paper in
the middle; and repeat for 3-4 hours gaining .5 to 1 mm at a time. It
is long tedious work but the head does come off.
Thanks to the list I kept my patience and never did something I would
Keep trying and it will come off.
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 20:27:06 -0500
From: rick <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: removing the motor head
Huh... Any tips on removing the head from the TR6's motor?
Would a sharp blow from a 20 pound hammer help the %&#! thing???