> From triumphs-owner@triumph.cs.utah.edu Tue Jun 20 12:38 EDT 1995
> From: Charles.Y.Farwell@att.com
> Original-From: cyf@drmail.dr.att.com (Charles Y. Farwell)
> References: <m0sO16l-0013ZnC@garnet.msen.com>
> X-Mailer: Z-Mail (3.2.1 10apr95)
> To: lti@mail.msen.com (Limno-Tech Inc.)
> Subject: Re: Veneer for dashboards
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Sender: owner-triumphs@triumph.cs.utah.edu
> Precedence: bulk
> Reply-To: Charles.Y.Farwell@att.com
> X-Lines: 23
>
> Why use a veneer at all, instead of just hardwood? Is it because
> you wanted the burl, which was only available in veneer?
>
> I will be installing a wood dash in my TR4, and expect to use
> just hardwood, no veneer. What thickness stock should I use?
>
> Also, what did you use for a template for cutting holes? just
> the old dash? Is there any special attachment hardware that needs
> to be ordered?
>
> Thanks!
> Charlie Farwell 1962 TR4 CT3852L
> cyf@dr.att.com
good grade plywood w/veneer should be more stable then solid
wood. if this is a fair weather car and is not exposed to
extremes in humidity sold should be ok. also if you finish
BOTH sides and all edges any problems should be reduced.
if you have the old dash as a template just use the same
thickness. (if not i'm sure someone can measure one for you)
you may have to plane it to get the correct size.
i was planing to build a new one from solid as well but since
then i have refinished my dash and it came out better then i
expected so now i am not.
while i was working on the refinish job i was looking at
how to duplicate it and i did not see anything hard or anything
extra (mounting hw and the like) that i could not use from the
old dash. (i have a 250, but it should be very similar to a 4)
kbt
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