On Sunday 23 October 2005 12:39 am, Randall wrote:
> > I like the idea of inserting a pipe plug into the water pump bypass line
> > and drilling it to allow a reduced volume of water through the by-pass
> Go right ahead, it probably won't hurt anything. Assuming of course that
> you believe the original engineer made a mistake when he sized the bypass
> line ...
That's not entirely an unlikely assumption. Since the sleeved thermostat has
not been ubiquitous, the "design" has changed and I'd guess that the by-pass
is not sized correctly in that event.
A similar "adjustment" to the water pump in both my Chevy S-10 4.3L V-6
engines had a noticeable effect, especially in the middle of the 90+ degree/
high humidity days locally this past summer, but I have not tried it on my
TR3's. I have a high-volume water pump on supercharged 350 V-8 that required
a bypass 1/8" hole in the thermostat, otherwise the engine overheated.
GM and Standard have been known to employ an excellent engineer or two, but
they all work with design criteria other than "what might happen when it
leaves the factory". I wonder what they think of our efforts? 8)
A properly working cooling system gets the engine to the design temp in the
right amount of time, keeps it there, and just doesn't become an annoyance.
A fan shroud and proper ducting of the airflow still seem to me to be the
easiest approach no matter what thermostat you use. It would have been nice
for Triumph to provide a fan clutch, though.
1954 TR2 TS561L
1959 TR3A TS33111L
1960 TR3A T543923L (note DMV error)
1960 TR3A TS74076L
1961 TR3A TS63304L
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