Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install?
I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked
they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull
the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract
springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck.
FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and
Tom Monaco told me they're fine.
On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
>  I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except
> that on its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were
> not right.
>  Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
> retracting properly.
> Â Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes
> that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY
> with the driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder
> retracts like a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
> Â So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both
> rear brakes, not just one of them?
>
> Â Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @
> $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>
> Â Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>
> Â Thanks in advance,
>
> Neil
>
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