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Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 09:12:04 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com> <CAB3i7LJPp3A=4VcR12K5Bd3vYq_t+uOaC=DpSZoNF1J+Vox4Vg@mail.gmail.com> <CAFbzz1-7o6C09hO+33QY59Xf82f+r9Rt7xPZ-SaaWz0kJZNb7Q@mail.gmail.com>
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re: '... there still being some residual brake fluid on the drum (even 
though I thought I had cleaned it all off) ...'

Can't be done. I tried once, by cleaning--with brake cleaner--sanding 
the 'wet' off and repeat repeat repeat. I thought I had some cleaned, 
but after sitting overnight brake fluid would ooze out, no matter how 
many times I tried to clean them. Maybe, if it's a light 'dusting' of 
fluid, and you get to it immediately you can have some success, but who 
wants to take any chances with brakes?

FWIW, I've 'voided the warranty' several times using silicone BF with no 
issues (I have had problems with DoT 3, though). I don't recall the 
'Classic Gold' cylinders I got from Moss having that warning on the box. 
I was grateful to pay a reasonable price for front cylinders for a BN2; 
years ago they were something like $70 per for F/R. I never figured out 
why, just for the front rights, but we got one that was obviously a 
return (slightly) cleaned-up and put back on the shelf. Moss, among 
others--looking at you, RockAuto--apparently put returns back on the 
shelf without inspecting them.

bs


On 7/7/2021 8:46 AM, Healey wrote:
> Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of driving, the rear 
> brake in question was getting so hot, it started to smoke :-(
> In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still being some 
> residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I thought I had cleaned 
> it all off) from the previous / original wheel cylinder that went bad.
> However, the underlying problem of the cylinder not retracting is 
> confirmed with the drum off.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Neil
>
> On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com 
>
>     Perhaps you could better describe "things were not right".
>     If the brake was not overly hot there may be no problem.
>     When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder only operates in the
>     first couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the bore serves only
>     as a guide for the piston.
>
>     M
>


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<html>
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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
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  <body>
    re: '... there still being some residual brake fluid on the drum
    (even though I thought I had cleaned it all off) ...'<br>
    <br>
    Can't be done. I tried once, by cleaning--with brake
    cleaner--sanding the 'wet' off and repeat repeat repeat. I thought I
    had some cleaned, but after sitting overnight brake fluid would ooze
    out, no matter how many times I tried to clean them. Maybe, if it's
    a light 'dusting' of fluid, and you get to it immediately you can
    have some success, but who wants to take any chances with brakes?<br>
    <br>
    FWIW, I've 'voided the warranty' several times using silicone BF
    with no issues (I have had problems with DoT 3, though). I don't
    recall the 'Classic Gold' cylinders I got from Moss having that
    warning on the box. I was grateful to pay a reasonable price for
    front cylinders for a BN2; years ago they were something like $70
    per for F/R. I never figured out why, just for the front rights, but
    we got one that was obviously a return (slightly) cleaned-up and put
    back on the shelf. Moss, among others--looking at you,
    RockAuto--apparently put returns back on the shelf without
    inspecting them.<br>
    <br>
    bs<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/7/2021 8:46 AM, Healey wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAFbzz1-7o6C09hO+33QY59Xf82f+r9Rt7xPZ-SaaWz0kJZNb7Q@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of
        driving, the rear brake in question was getting so hot, it
        started to smoke :-( 
        <div>In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still
          being some residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I
          thought I had cleaned it all off) from the previous / original
          wheel cylinder that went bad.</div>
        <div>However, the underlying problem of the cylinder not
          retracting is confirmed with the drum off.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Thanks,</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Neil</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM
          Michael Salter &lt;<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";
            moz-do-not-send="true">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div dir="auto">Perhaps you could better describe "things were
            not right".
            <div dir="auto">If the brake was not overly hot there may be
              no problem.  </div>
            <div dir="auto">When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder
              only operates in the first couple of mm of its stroke, the
              rest of the bore serves only as a guide for the piston.</div>
            <div dir="auto"><br>
            </div>
            <div dir="auto">M</div>
          </div>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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