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Hi Bob,
No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never heard
of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston obviously moves
out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the problem.
So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side works
fine), correct?
Thanks in advance
On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? I
> just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they
> seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the
> recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract
> springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck.
> FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and
> Tom Monaco told me they're fine.
>
>
> On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
>
>> I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
>> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
>> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
>> Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
>> retracting properly.
>> Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
>> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
>> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
>> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
>> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>> So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
>> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
>> brakes, not just one of them?
>>
>> Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
>> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14
>> as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>>
>> Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
>> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Neil
>>
>>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Bob,<div><br></div><div>=C2=A0No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylind=
er apart before install (never heard of that one before). The bleeding went=
fine, and the piston obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of re=
tracting that is the problem.</div><div>=C2=A0So to confirm, noone thinks i=
t's the hose (b/c the passenger side works fine), correct?</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Thanks in advance</div><div><br>On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob S=
pidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.net</a>=
> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex=
;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Did you disassemble and lubri=
cate the seals on the cyls before install? I just replaced several on my BN=
2, and forgot to, but when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them=
, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if=
there's anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the c=
ylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed several of =
the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco told me they=
9;re fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
=C2=A0I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder=C2=A0(drivers sid=
e) earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except =
that on its inaugural=C2=A0run, it became quickly apparent that things were=
not right.<br>
=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder=C2=A0was=
not retracting properly.<br>
=C2=A0 Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber p=
ipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that go=
es into a T to=C2=A0feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with th=
e driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like=
a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.<br>
=C2=A0So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe =
was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both =
rear brakes, not just one of them?<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel=
cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder=
=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder=C2=A0@ $70), or do I repla=
ce both? or?<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly=
worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath=
.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,<br>
<br>
Neil<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
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</blockquote></div>
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