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Perhaps you could better describe "things were not right".
If the brake was not overly hot there may be no problem.
When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder only operates in the first
couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the bore serves only as a guide for
the piston.
M
On Mon., Jul. 5, 2021, 6:38 p.m. Healey, <67healey@gmail.com> wrote:
> I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
> Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
> retracting properly.
> Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
> So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
> brakes, not just one of them?
>
> Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder from
> Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14 as opposed to
> the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>
> Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Neil
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Perhaps you could better describe "things were not r=
ight".<div dir=3D"auto">If the brake was not overly hot there may be n=
o problem.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">When correctly adjusted the w=
heel cylinder only operates in the first couple of mm of its stroke, the re=
st of the bore serves only as a guide for the piston.</div><div dir=3D"auto=
"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><=
div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon., Jul. 5, 2021, 6:38 p.m. Heale=
y, <<a href=3D"mailto:67healey@gmail.com";>67healey@gmail.com</a>> wro=
te:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;b=
order-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">=C2=A0I had to=
replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder=C2=A0(drivers side) earlier. Ev=
erything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on its in=
augural=C2=A0run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.=C2=
=A0<div>=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder=
=C2=A0was not retracting properly.=C2=A0</div><div>=C2=A0 Group wisdom from=
the internet says you need to replace the rubber pipe.No problem - except =
there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to=C2=A0feed=
both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - t=
he passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ. Driver's s=
ide spring is ok btw.</div><div>=C2=A0So what I don't understand is - i=
f the inside of the rubber pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through=
, wouldn't this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?</div><di=
v><br></div><div>=C2=A0 Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a &quo=
t;bad" wheel cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper afte=
rmarket cylinder=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder=C2=A0@ $70=
), or do I replace both? or?</div><div><br></div><div>=C2=A0 Lastly, what i=
s the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly worn & about the=
same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.</div><div><br></div=
><div>=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,</div><div><br></div><div>Neil</div><div>=C2=
=A0</div></div>
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</blockquote></div>
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