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Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake

To: Healey <67healey@gmail.com>, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 11:45:11 -0400
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com> <92675e7b-9394-87eb-b76a-8df27753fdac@comcast.net> <CAFbzz18axOdiuvyVLPZcN_y5KddLdvaPomhmVsv8JL+LLg4QWg@mail.gmail.com>
User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:78.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/78.10.0
Neil,

I'd start with the wheel cylinder as that's what was replaced. What are 
you using for brake fluid?  Some master cylinders that I've bought from 
Moss aren't compatible with DOT 5 - voids the warranty.  Don't know if 
that applies to their wheel cylinders or not.

If you change the rubber hose, you ought to make sure the metal line is 
clear too.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/6/21 11:34 AM, Healey wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
>  No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never 
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston 
> obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the 
> problem.
>  So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side 
> works fine), correct?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell@comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
>     install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
>     when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not
>     be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's
>     anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the
>     cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed
>     several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco
>     told me they're fine.
>
>
>     On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
>
>          I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers
>         side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &
>         adjustment, except that on its inaugural run, it became
>         quickly apparent that things were not right.
>          Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
>         cylinder was not retracting properly.
>           Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the
>         rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
>         rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes
>         - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the
>         passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ.
>         Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>          So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber
>         pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
>         this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?
>
>           Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
>         cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket
>         cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or
>         do I replace both? or?
>
>           Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both
>         are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal
>         mounting plate underneath.
>
>           Thanks in advance,
>
>         Neil
>
>
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