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Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of driving, the rear brake in
question was getting so hot, it started to smoke :-(
In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still being some
residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I thought I had cleaned it
all off) from the previous / original wheel cylinder that went bad.
However, the underlying problem of the cylinder not retracting is confirmed
with the drum off.
Thanks,
Neil
On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Perhaps you could better describe "things were not right".
> If the brake was not overly hot there may be no problem.
> When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder only operates in the first
> couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the bore serves only as a guide for
> the piston.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jul. 5, 2021, 6:38 p.m. Healey, <67healey@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
>> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
>> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
>> Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
>> retracting properly.
>> Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
>> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
>> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
>> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
>> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>> So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
>> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
>> brakes, not just one of them?
>>
>> Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
>> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14
>> as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>>
>> Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
>> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Neil
>>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of driving, =
the rear brake in question was getting so hot, it started to smoke :-(=C2=
=A0<div>In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still being s=
ome residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I thought I had cleaned i=
t all off) from the previous / original wheel cylinder that went bad.</div>=
<div>However, the underlying problem of the cylinder=C2=A0not retracting is=
confirmed with the drum off.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Neil</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr=
" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM Michael Salter <<a=
href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";>michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>> wr=
ote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px=
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D=
"auto">Perhaps you could better describe "things were not right".=
<div dir=3D"auto">If the brake was not overly hot there may be no problem.=
=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">When correctly adjusted the wheel cylin=
der only operates in the first couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the =
bore serves only as a guide for the piston.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D=
"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon., Jul. 5, 2021, 6:38 p.m. Healey, <<a =
href=3D"mailto:67healey@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank">67healey@gmail.com</a>=
> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div=
dir=3D"ltr">=C2=A0I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder=C2=
=A0(drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adju=
stment, except that on its inaugural=C2=A0run, it became quickly apparent t=
hat things were not right.=C2=A0<div>=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, on=
ly to find that the cylinder=C2=A0was not retracting properly.=C2=A0</div><=
div>=C2=A0 Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubb=
er pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes tha=
t goes into a T to=C2=A0feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY wit=
h the driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts =
like a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.</div><div>=C2=A0So what I=
don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was swollen, no=
t letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear brakes, no=
t just one of them?</div><div><br></div><div>=C2=A0 Should I replace this o=
ne hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes=
, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the T=
RW brand cylinder=C2=A0@ $70), or do I replace both? or?</div><div><br></di=
v><div>=C2=A0 Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are=
evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate und=
erneath.</div><div><br></div><div>=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,</div><div><br><=
/div><div>Neil</div><div>=C2=A0</div></div>
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