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Hi Bob - thanks - I just used regular DOT3 - nothing fancy
On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:45 AM Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Neil,
>
> I'd start with the wheel cylinder as that's what was replaced. What are
> you using for brake fluid? Some master cylinders that I've bought from
> Moss aren't compatible with DOT 5 - voids the warranty. Don't know if
> that applies to their wheel cylinders or not.
>
> If you change the rubber hose, you ought to make sure the metal line is
> clear too.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 7/6/21 11:34 AM, Healey wrote:
> > Hi Bob,
> >
> > No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never
> > heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston
> > obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the
> > problem.
> > So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side
> > works fine), correct?
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net
> >
> > Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
> > install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
> > when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not
> > be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's
> > anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the
> > cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed
> > several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco
> > told me they're fine.
> >
> >
> > On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
> >
> > I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers
> > side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &
> > adjustment, except that on its inaugural run, it became
> > quickly apparent that things were not right.
> > Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
> > cylinder was not retracting properly.
> > Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the
> > rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
> > rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes
> > - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the
> > passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ.
> > Driver's side spring is ok btw.
> > So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber
> > pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
> > this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?
> >
> > Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
> > cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket
> > cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or
> > do I replace both? or?
> >
> > Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both
> > are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal
> > mounting plate underneath.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Neil
> >
> >
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Bob - thanks - I just used regular DOT3 - nothing fancy=
</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:45 AM Bob Haskell <<a href=3D"mailto:rchaskell@=
earthlink.net">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px sol=
id rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Neil,<br>
<br>
I'd start with the wheel cylinder as that's what was replaced. What=
are <br>
you using for brake fluid?=C2=A0 Some master cylinders that I've bought=
from <br>
Moss aren't compatible with DOT 5 - voids the warranty.=C2=A0 Don't=
know if <br>
that applies to their wheel cylinders or not.<br>
<br>
If you change the rubber hose, you ought to make sure the metal line is <br=
>
clear too.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell<br>
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar<br>
<br>
On 7/6/21 11:34 AM, Healey wrote:<br>
> Hi Bob,<br>
><br>
> =C2=A0No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before instal=
l (never <br>
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston <br>
> obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is =
the <br>
> problem.<br>
> =C2=A0So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger=
side <br>
> works fine), correct?<br>
><br>
> Thanks in advance<br>
><br>
> On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@co=
mcast.net" target=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a> <br>
> <mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank">b=
spidell@comcast.net</a>>> wrote:<br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the =
cyls before<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and for=
got to, but<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in th=
em, so may not<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder=
and see if there's<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty stro=
ng so the<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I'=
;ve installed<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0several of the 'cheapies' and not had an is=
sue, and Tom Monaco<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0told me they're fine.<br>
><br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:<br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0I had to replace a leaking, ori=
ginal wheel cylinder=C2=A0(drivers<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0side) earlier. Everything went fine w=
ith the install &<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0adjustment, except that on its inaugu=
ral=C2=A0run, it became<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0quickly apparent that things were not=
right.<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, o=
nly to find that the<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cylinder=C2=A0was not retracting prop=
erly.<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 Group wisdom from the internet=
says you need to replace the<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0rubber pipe.No problem - except there=
is only 1 of these<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0rubber brake pipes that goes into a T=
to=C2=A0feed both rear brakes<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0- and the problem is ONLY with the dr=
iver's brake - the<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0passenger side rear wheel cylinder re=
tracts like a champ.<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Driver's side spring is ok btw.<b=
r>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0So what I don't understand =
is - if the inside of the rubber<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0pipe was swollen, not letting fluid b=
ack through, wouldn't<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0this affect both rear brakes, not jus=
t one of them?<br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 Should I replace this one hose=
, or did I get a "bad" wheel<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes, I orde=
red the cheaper aftermarket<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cylinder=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the=
TRW brand cylinder=C2=A0@ $70), or<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0do I replace both? or?<br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 Lastly, what is the min thickn=
ess of the rear shoes? Both<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0are evenly worn & about the same =
thickness as the metal<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0mounting plate underneath.<br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,<br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Neil<br>
><br>
><br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0_______________________________________________<br>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/don=
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</blockquote></div>
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