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Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any damage. And thanks
for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.
Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel
cylinder again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally
with it. And then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will
be a "Sunday job" so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!
Cheers,
Neil
On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line
> (not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some contaminant
> got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but might prevent
> withdrawal of the piston.
>
> BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least 20K
> miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due to
> wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove brake or
> differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).
>
> bs
>
>
> On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston obviously
> moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the problem.
> So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side works
> fine), correct?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? I
>> just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they
>> seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the
>> recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract
>> springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck.
>> FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and
>> Tom Monaco told me they're fine.
>>
>>
>> On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
>>
>>> I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
>>> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
>>> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
>>> Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
>>> retracting properly.
>>> Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
>>> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
>>> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
>>> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
>>> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>>> So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
>>> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
>>> brakes, not just one of them?
>>>
>>> Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
>>> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14
>>> as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>>>
>>> Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
>>> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>
>>> Neil
>>>
>>>
>>
>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any dam=
age. And thanks for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.<div><=
br></div><div>Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offend=
ing wheel cylinder=C2=A0again to see if I can see if there is anything wron=
g=C2=A0internally with it. And then move onto blowing out the=C2=A0hardline=
if required. That will be a "Sunday job" so, I'll circle bac=
k with the list after that - thanks!</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div>=
<div><br></div><div>Neil</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wro=
te:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px =
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard
line (not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, som=
e
contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure
but might prevent withdrawal of the piston.<br>
<br>
BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least
20K miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my
Healeys due to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot
completely remove brake or differential fluid from shoes once
they've been soaked).<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
Hi Bob,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>=C2=A0No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before
install (never heard of that one before). The bleeding went
fine, and the piston obviously moves out ok - it's just the lac=
k
of retracting that is the problem.</div>
<div>=C2=A0So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the pas=
senger
side works fine), correct?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks in advance</div>
<div><br>
On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell=
@comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Did you
disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may
not be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see i=
f
there's anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong
so the cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've
installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue,=
and
Tom Monaco told me they're fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8=
ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=C2=A0I had to replace a leaking, original wheel
cylinder=C2=A0(drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with
the install & adjustment, except that on its
inaugural=C2=A0run, it became quickly apparent that things were
not right.<br>
=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
cylinder=C2=A0was not retracting properly.<br>
=C2=A0 Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace
the rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to=C2=A0feed both rear
brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake -
the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.<br>
=C2=A0So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the =
rubber
pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad=
" wheel
cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarke=
t
cylinder=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder=C2=A0@=
$70),
or do I replace both? or?<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Bot=
h
are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal
mounting plate underneath.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,<br>
<br>
Neil<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
</blockquote></div>
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