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This has been an issue for many years. The casting on the outer of the =
cylinder is a little large for the hole in the backing plate. All you =
need to do is file down on each side of the cylinder so it fits into the =
backing plate.
David Nock
healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the=20
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites=20
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
From: Healey=20
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2021 8:51 AM
To: Bob Spidell=20
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any damage. And =
thanks for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.=20
Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel cylinder =
again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally with it. =
And then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will be a =
"Sunday job" so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!
Cheers,
Neil
On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> =
wrote:
I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line =
(not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some =
contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but =
might prevent withdrawal of the piston.
BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least 20K =
miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due =
to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove =
brake or differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).
bs
On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:
Hi Bob,=20
No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never =
heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston =
obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the =
problem.
So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side =
works fine), correct?
Thanks in advance
On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before =
install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I =
checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. =
I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, =
the retract springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to =
really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not =
had an issue, and Tom Monaco told me they're fine.
On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers =
side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, =
except that on its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things =
were not right.
Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was =
not retracting properly.
Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the =
rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake =
pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is =
ONLY with the driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder =
retracts like a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe =
was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both =
rear brakes, not just one of them?
Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel =
cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ =
$14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? =
or?
Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are =
evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate =
underneath.
Thanks in advance,
Neil
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>This has been an issue for many years. The casting on the outer of =
the=20
cylinder is a little large for the hole in the backing plate. All you =
need to do=20
is file down on each side of the cylinder so it fits into the backing=20
plate.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: =
#000000">David=20
Nock<BR>healeydoc@sbcglobal.net<BR>209 948=20
8767<BR>www.britishcarspecialists.com<BR><BR>Help us have our Founder =
Norman=20
Nock inducteed into the <BR>British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote =
for=20
your favorites <BR>by visiting the site=20
at.<BR>www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org<BR></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=3D67healey@gmail.com>Healey</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, July 07, 2021 8:51 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dbspidell@comcast.net>Bob Spidell</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A =
title=3Dhealeys@autox.team.net>healeys@autox.team.net</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any =
damage. And=20
thanks for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.=20
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel =
cylinder=20
again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally with it. =
And=20
then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will be a =
"Sunday job"=20
so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Cheers,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Neil</DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_attr dir=3Dltr>On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob =
Spidell=20
<<A>bspidell@comcast.net</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; =
MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV>I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard =
line=20
(not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some =
contaminant=20
got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but might =
prevent=20
withdrawal of the piston.<BR><BR>BTW, from your description, your rear =
shoes=20
probably have at least 20K miles of material left. I've never had to =
change=20
shoes in my Healeys due to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you =
cannot=20
completely remove brake or differential fluid from shoes once they've =
been=20
soaked).<BR><BR>bs<BR><BR><BR>
<DIV>On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type=3D"cite">Hi Bob,=20
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install =
(never=20
heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston =
obviously=20
moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the =
problem.</DIV>
<DIV>So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger =
side works=20
fine), correct?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks in advance</DIV>
<DIV><BR>On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <<A=20
target=3D_blank>bspidell@comcast.net</A>> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; =
MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">Did=20
you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before =
install? I just=20
replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they =
seemed=20
to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the=20
recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the =
retract=20
springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be =
stuck.=20
FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an =
issue, and=20
Tom Monaco told me they're fine.<BR><BR><BR>On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, =
Healey=20
wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px =
solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">I=20
had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side) =
earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, =
except=20
that on its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that =
things were=20
not right.<BR>Took the drum back off again, only to find that =
the=20
cylinder was not retracting properly.<BR> Group wisdom =
from the=20
internet says you need to replace the rubber pipe.No problem - =
except=20
there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that goes into a T =
to feed=20
both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's =
brake - the=20
passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ. =
Driver's side=20
spring is ok btw.<BR>So what I don't understand is - if the =
inside of=20
the rubber pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, =
wouldn't=20
this affect both rear brakes, not just one of =
them?<BR><BR> Should=20
I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder =
from Moss?=20
(yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14 as =
opposed to the=20
TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? =
or?<BR><BR> =20
Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are =
evenly=20
worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate=20
underneath.<BR><BR> Thanks in=20
=
advance,<BR><BR>Neil<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQU=
OTE><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR>Support Team.Net=20
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ox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<BR><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
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