mgb-v8
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Now epoxy bonds, was Gauge Bezels

To: Larry Hoy <list@marketvalue.net>
Subject: Re: Now epoxy bonds, was Gauge Bezels
From: "James J." <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2003 15:56:04 -0400
Cc: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
References: <000001c34244$46ec81a0$6401a8c0@LARRY>
Reply-to: "James J." <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
Sender: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net
User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.1; en-US; rv:1.0.2) Gecko/20030208 Netscape/7.02
Larry,
    That could be, and I certainly don't mean to question your sources 
and experience.  I think our different findings can be explained by the 
following: I had been doing alot of reading on composites lately, and 
seeing how many metal MGB panels I could replace with a FRP panel.  What 
I found was that the newer High-Strength auto steel used in 
post-gas-crunch cars (~75 on in a few, and many more starting in the 
mid-1980's) is very thin and manufactured with a complex heat-treatment 
to give it extra strength.  It doesn't respond to heat well at all.  The 
metal becomes very brittle in the HAZ, and thus far weaker than an 
equivalent thickness of mild steel.  There were all kinds of problems in 
the early years after the introduction of the high-strength steel with 
body-shop repairs, and people using traditional methods for repairs. 
 Careful MIG and TIG welding can make a passable repair, but gas, stick 
and spot (in general) really screw up the metal, leading to cracks, 
corrosion, etc. etc. etc., so the manufacturers looked for heat-less  or 
low-heat methods of repair.  The epoxy method rose to the top.  It is 
used for panel repairs, and at least for all non-load-bearing skins at 
the factory, and now windshield attachment (now a load-sharing 
component).  It could be used for more, and possible some structural 
assembly, but I don't honestly know.  I just don't recall reading about 
any.  Suspension fittings and pillars all seem to be spot-welded on all 
the late models I've had a chance to look at.  At the factory, they can 
program the robot welders to the bare minimum heat for factory 
spot-welds and do so w/o harm.
I think we are both right, but with a twist:
Epoxy repairs and bonds are stronger than conventional welding to 
High-Strength steel, because the heat would make the surrounding metal 
weaker than the epoxy bond, not that epoxy is stronger than metal.
On mild steel, which we have on our MG's, welding is stronger, because 
welding doesn't damage mild-steel.

This is all based on piecing several documents and sources together, not 
on any one authoritative thesis.  Do we have any metalurgists in the 
group that can set me straight?  In the space buisiness, we use all 
kinds of metal/epoxy bonds, but spacecraft are still hand-built, and 
have all kinds of funky fasteners to provide a large surface area for 
bonding.  Here, it seems that metal is used for bearing surfaces 
(pivots, etc.) mostly.  We spend alot of time trying to  design a part 
so that the metal and composite have equal, but opposite coefficients of 
thermal expansion, so that overall length doesn't change. (diameter is 
another matter)

James J.

p.s.  If the surface area of the mating surfaces is large enough, and it 
is covered entirely w/ epoxy, it can be made stronger than a stitch weld 
or a string of spot welds, for the same reason a 3/4" aluminum rod is 
stronger than a thread of steel (in tension), even though the maximum 
STRESS allowable by steel is far higher than aluminum.
Peace.


Larry Hoy wrote:

>>Epoxy bonding (between metal and metal) is applicable where 
>>brazing or soldering is acceptable, in my humble opinion based upon my
>>    
>>
>
>  
>
>>observations (not having seen any OEM documentation describing their 
>>decision process).  
>>    
>>
>
>James J, It's my understanding that testing has found the bonded panels
>to be stronger than the traditional methods of assembly.  (I'm assuming
>spot welding).
>
>The only product I'm familiar with is FUSOR.  It is a two part epoxy
>that is mixed at the time of use by the tool that is used to apply it.
>It bonds the steel in thirty minutes and is fully set in 24 hours.

///
///  mgb-v8@autox.team.net mailing list
///  Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net
///  Send list postings to mgb-v8@autox.team.net
///  Edit your replies!  If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
///


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>