At 09:44 AM 9/8/97 -0700, Justin Wagner wrote:
>In regards to the TR 4A type motor...
>
>
>
>I've heard different ideas over the years... but... when you re-torque
>the head...
>
>should you loosen each nut a little, before re-torquing? or what?
>
>As much as I've been involved with Triumphs... Since I always did my own
>work... (since 1977) ... this is just one of those questions that I
>never really got a good answer on and somehow, has slipped through the
>cracks...
>
>>From experience, I do know, that simply hitting each nut with the the
>torque wrench doesn't necessarily do anything... as the nut can get a
>little frozen in place... hence... it could be many pounds below your
>torque wrench setting, and, yet, it will simply click on first
>attempt...
>
>So I'm interested to hear a consensus of opinion on this issue.
>
>
Justin,
I will share what I "know" from talking, reading, and working on/about engines.
The best single source of info that I have ever found was the "official"
volvo manual.
It dealt with an engine that had aluminum block(wet lined) and heads. I
figure if
the procedures they describe will prevent damage to an aluminum head, they
could in
no way damage a cast iron head(IMHO).
Anyway, to re-torque I always un-torque in reverse torquing order. I then
re-torque
in the proper sequence to a ft-lb torque FAR less than the final torque. In
other words,
it will take me 4-5 "torques" to reach the final ft-lb torque.
I also clean, smooth, and oil the washers, nuts, and head surfaces so as to
minimize
any friction losses.
My ways may be dead wrong, but I have never had a head/head gasket problem
on any
engine I've built.
Tim
Kingston, Tennessee
'62 TR4 CT16063L
email: ttucker@conc.tdsnet.com (Home)
tuu@ornl.gov (office)
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