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Re: RE-TORQUING HEAD

To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: RE-TORQUING HEAD
From: Tom Tweed <ak627@dayton.wright.edu>
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 19:08:14 -0400
Hello Romano and list,  wrt

 >.. is it possible that different gaskets require different re-torquing
 >  methods? If the instructions attached to a gasket state that one
 >  should literally re-torque immediately, maybe this gasket is of a
 >  different type than those which want to be re-torqued after 500 miles.
 >  (after-market products such as head gaskets might be produced to
 >    different standards/procedures)
 >
 >.. in addition, different cars (head/block combinations) might require
 >    different methods

Yes, some very different !  for instance, the Renault 1700cc  OHC
with aluminum head; Two-step torque up, then back off completely,
then three-step torque up, all with bolts OILED.

 >
 >.. the Haynes Spitfire manual says:
 >
 >  - after replacement torque to the specified setting
 >  - after 500 miles re-torque
 >  - when you re-torque loosen each nut a little (a quarter of a turn),
 >       before re-torquing
 >
 >Romano
 >'77 Spit
 >Oxford
 >U.K.
 >

I'd have to say that the short answer must be, Do what the manual says.
There are enough different possible engine designs, what with aluminum
heads, wet-liner sleeves, OHC, dry torque specs, oiled torque specs,
`stretch' (one-time-only use) head bolts, etc, etc, that even with a
pushrod, all-iron engine, the engineers probably had one Best Way to
get it to seal up after assembly.

JMHO, of course, but what's that old saying?
When all else fails, Read the Directions...8-)
Tom Tweed
SW Ohio


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